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1992 Honda Civic VX stalls when throttle is opened

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  • #887901
    Cabel PattersonCabel Patterson
    Participant

      The car starts and idles normally, but will stall if the gas pedal is pressed normally or quickly as if it’s choking. If the gas pedal is pressed slowly, the engine will rev up normally. No check engine light. This just started two days ago after I changed the oil and trans fluid, but I think it’s a coincidence. The car is stock with 155,000 miles. The fuel filter was changed about 20,000 miles ago, so I don’t think that’s it, but I’m going to start there. The throttle body was cleaned and the entire distributor was replaced professionally 3 years ago. The TPS was replaced professionally 2 years ago. I have been doing non-stop online research and I’ve found a few posts from people with the same problem, but they either didn’t post a conclusion or different conclusions were reached leaving the best course of action unclear. Anyone know what I should try? Please let me know if you need more info. Thanks!

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    • #887909
      RyanRyan
      Participant

        Bad distributor, clogged cat? Is it throwing any codes at all?
        Distributors are cheap and easy to try. Yes it was replaced a few years ago but no reason it couldnt have gone bad again. Im not sure how to narrow it down enough though :

        Check all electrical connections to sensors make sure they arnt damaged or anything.

        #887916
        Steve KleinSteve Klein
        Participant

          Check the vacuum line to your MAP sensor. Also, I had a similar issue a few years ago that ended up being a bad distributor cap (more specifically the connection between the cap and the coil).

          #887922
          Cabel PattersonCabel Patterson
          Participant

            Problem solved! Skailing and sklein were correct in their comments suspecting the distributor. It was corroded distributor cap and rotor terminals. I replaced them with generic ones from Advance Auto for $25 and the car is back to normal. I guess it was just a weird coincidence that the problem started after I changed the oil and trans fluid. I didn’t think it was anything to do with my distributor because it was fairly new, but now I know it doesn’t take that long for the cap and rotor to get corroded. A big take away for me is knowing that a car can idle normally with worn out distributor parts and sometimes only have problems running under load. Thank you for all the ideas and comments and I hope this thread helps others in the future.

            Cabel

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