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- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 4 months ago by
college man.
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- September 2, 2013 at 7:14 pm #542044
from my last thread i have fixed the ac system it blows cold and the second (passenger) fan turns on now.i was in traffic it was 92 degrees out with the ac on and the gauge started to go over to the 240 ish almost to the 260 red mark and then it would kick up and down the ac was also working very poorly when it was doing this too.i have replaced the sensors for the guage,ac system,relays,coolant fan switch&connector with a ac delco,the radiator cap,thermostat 195,when i got home the overflow tank coolant was not boiling over but i did nto check it in traffic.i have not replaced the water pump or radiator.both the fans turn on when they should.is there anything else i can test?because i dont want it to overheat.i know the driver side fan turns on at a little past 220 with no ac on,if i turn on the ac past the 220 mark both fans turn on. and i only have this problem in traffic if im on the highway it stays at the 160 mark.
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- September 2, 2013 at 7:36 pm #542066
If both fans are coming on and you still can’t cool
the coolant down. either radiator or water pump.
Try tuning the heat on full and fan on high. if the
temp drops and returns to normal.I would suggest radiator
problem.September 2, 2013 at 8:44 pm #542096Not to contradict, but if you can maintain a good temp while cruising the freeway, but not while in traffic, you have an air flow problem. If you have never removed the radiator, I’d be willing to bet that you have a ton of build up between the radiator and the ac condenser that’s hampering your air flow while in traffic. It might be worth a look.
September 2, 2013 at 8:55 pm #542098Since my memory is slowly failing I shouldn’t guess but if I do remember right those cars had weird air ducting to the radiator and if only one of the components was damaged or missing they would run HOT.
Check for missing seals between the rad and condenser as well.
September 2, 2013 at 8:59 pm #542102I definitely agree it sounds like an airflow problem. If it were me, these are the steps I would do.
1.) Look for any debris blocking the radiator or condenser.
2.) Verify that BOTH fans are coming on during an idle condition. If only one is coming on at idle, but both come on when using the AC, then I would first find out why that is happening. (Perhaps a thermal timing switch?)
3.) If all this is good, do as collegeman says and test to see if turning on the heat drops the temp. If it does, then I would lean towards the radiator being the culprit.
September 2, 2013 at 10:10 pm #542108yeah i check between the condensor radiator its clean there was a few bugs but nothing constricting airflow,it was disassembled by the body shop when i had the car painted. and i have the airdam below as well i have heard that can cause overheating as well. ok i let it warm up the drivers side fan turns on at above 220 with no ac or anything on and let it get hotter and turned on the heater and it jumped down in between the 220 and 160 mark and hot air was coming out of the vents.i checked the water pump weep hole nothing was leaking out.one thing i did notice is my temperture adjuster knob it hard to turn back to cold and wants to get stuck in the hot part and makes a hising noise when its turned all the way hot?the radiator is the orig ones as well. 20 something years old! so is the diagnosis the radiator?
September 2, 2013 at 10:46 pm #542122the only piece i know i am missing is the cowl seal to the top of the hood.could that really cause all this? and i let it get hot and i turned on the heat it went down from the 240ish mark down to in between 220 and 240 and then went back to were it was.and i the passenger fan would not turn on without the ac on.when the ac was on it stayed in the same temp around 240.
September 4, 2013 at 1:54 am #542379The first step with any overheat problem is to check for air in the cooling system. Trapped air in the cooling system can cause intermittent cooling and strange overheat problems. More information here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
September 26, 2013 at 3:41 pm #546616Ok the coolant system does not have air in it i have let it run with the heat on full fan off. and it has burped itself.I think i have a faulty coolant gauge sensor,i have a red dot heat gun and i when the guage is over in the 240 ish almost to 260(red) the primary is running and the secondary does not kick on unless i turn the ac on.i scanned the thermostat housing it was never getting over 195, the radiator and hoses were around 175-185 ish the coolant in the recovery tank is not boiling when the guage reads its getting that hot so.and plus i learned there is another sensor or gauge on the drivers side head that reads to the gauge.because i have replaced the fan switch on the passenger side.and one of the sensors on the front of the intake,that i thought read to the coolant gauge.
Attachments:September 27, 2013 at 2:50 am #546720Cool looking Z-28! Glad you seem to have it figured out!
October 2, 2013 at 12:07 am #547583[quote=”92Z28J” post=73829]Ok the coolant system does not have air in it i have let it run with the heat on full fan off. and it has burped itself.I think i have a faulty coolant gauge sensor,i have a red dot heat gun and i when the guage is over in the 240 ish almost to 260(red) the primary is running and the secondary does not kick on unless i turn the ac on.i scanned the thermostat housing it was never getting over 195, the radiator and hoses were around 175-185 ish the coolant in the recovery tank is not boiling when the guage reads its getting that hot so.and plus i learned there is another sensor or gauge on the drivers side head that reads to the gauge.because i have replaced the fan switch on the passenger side.and one of the sensors on the front of the intake,that i thought read to the coolant gauge.[/quote]
You also need to remove the radiator cap in order to purge the system of air, and run it at 2500 rpm till the cooling fan comes on. You can’t just run it with the heat on, that won’t be effective. As for the fans, it may be normal. The system may be set up to only turn the cooling fan on when you reach a given temp. The condenser fan may only come on when it’s really hot or when the AC is on. Before you go replacing any parts you might see if you can get your hands on a service manual to tell you how the system is suppose to work first.
October 18, 2013 at 1:12 am #550816ok i tried burping it without the funnel with the radiator cap off like in your video…..lost a good amount of coolant it shot out like 3 feet. im worse off now than when i started!ha but heres the manual that i have been using.http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/cooling/399646-cooling-fan-description-diagrams.html
October 20, 2013 at 10:46 am #551236Update,my friend was telling me to check on the passenger side to see if the heater core was bad and i found a green coolant drip right on the top of my floor mat coming from the bottom of the dash so the heater core is leaking.will that really cause the car to overheat though?
October 20, 2013 at 3:19 pm #551249[quote=”92Z28J” post=76188]Update,my friend was telling me to check on the passenger side to see if the heater core was bad and i found a green coolant drip right on the top of my floor mat coming from the bottom of the dash so the heater core is leaking.will that really cause the car to overheat though?[/quote]
If your losing coolant and not maintaining pressure then yes.
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