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I was replacing the timing belt in my 1990 Volvo 240DL. Got the belt on and all the timing marks are rite. Went to crank the engine and nothing. It cranks but doesn’t start. It sounds like it’s not getting any compression. I DO NOT HAVE A COMPRESSION TESTER so I can’t do a compression test. Is there another way to do a test to see if it’s getting compression with out a tester? If it helps any it’s a 4cyl SOHC 2.3L FI engine. It is getting spark and fuel I’m 100% sure that all the timing is correct also. Please I really need help with this one as I’m completely lost.
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I would go back and check your marks just to be sure you got them right, it’s been some time since I worked on one of those but if I remember right it’s not hard to get the marks messed up. Start with the simple stuff first but if you find that you ARE in time then you might try a leak down test to see if the valves are sealing properly. 90% of the time in a situation where you just did some work like that it’s likely that you are the cause of the problem and I’m not picking on you just saying that in my experience if something was running before you touched it YOU are the most likely cause of the fault so always go back and recheck your work.
Quoted From Beefy:
Nah, the starter turns an engine at 300 rpm tops. It’s not going to bend a valve. Valves bend when they are floating down with alot of force and smack a piston moving in the opposite direction at equal force. I talked with Brian from Briansmobile1 about this a bit. His experience is that valves often don’t get bent unless the vehicle was accelerating when the belt let go. He said he will often throw a new belt on before pulling the heads in an effort to try saving the customer money. I’m curious how Eric feels about this now though.
I first hand have seen valves get bent from someone cranking and cranking
the engine with the timing marks way off (it was actually on a ’99 volvo xc70).
Also the RPMS that a starter rotates an engine at can vary from car to car….Got everything balls on. Runs and sounds great. I even tightened down some of the belt tensions on it so the alternator is working better. I also got my speedometer fixed.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
One more thing.
Why did you replace the belt anyway?
Did it break?
If so then you probably have a bent valve(s).First of all, B230 engines are not interference engines. You can misalign or even let the belt snap and you should not damage the valves.
Yes, it is little difficult – I run into the same problem while aligning the timing belt on this engine. What you want to do is align from the bottom and put a wooden wedge (or find some way to hold the belt on crank) to hold it in place and run the belt counter clock direction to align the rest. The cam pulleys are not spring loaded so it moves pretty easily so you want to be careful aligning the pulley. The timing belt inner cover is plastic and flexes (moves) so you want to make sure that it is sitting on the engine block sometimes this pops out and will give you false alignment points.
Also check the camshaft and crank shaft oil seals – I replace these for every other timing belt job – looks like they last about 70K miles (the car requires 50K timing belt change)
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