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1990 jeep laredo wont start

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  • #504395
    KevinKevin
    Participant

      Ok so here I go again on this 90 Jeep…..straight 6cyl 2wd…drove home frm work and wouldnt start next day…..had corrosion on battery so replaced bad cable head and chg battery…started and ran fine. next day dead again…now wont even start with new battery or jump….pulled wire from coil and engine actually turned….was going to do tune up anyway so, replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil and pcv…same again…………acts same/////there is a small rail with 4 relays and a small metal box above the coil and I hear a cick when turn key……Im really reachin for anything at this point :blink:

    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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    • #504544
      jayjay
      Participant

        Is this a stick tranny? I had a crank sensor go on one of these the sensor is by the bell housing ,if it cant read the engine turning it wont send fire to the coil.

        #504545
        KevinKevin
        Participant

          sorry auto tranny…have been told possible starter???? any ideas anyone

          #506245
          KevinKevin
          Participant

            Ok update. .. starter and battery replaced. . Now will turn over but not fire. Checked fuel pump.when I bypassed ignition it will work and jeep will run. Now, where do I look? Relay or fuse link or ecm….aaaaaaaaaa. Tired of throwing money at it..
            Any ideas?

            #506249
            Dustin HicksDustin Hicks
            Participant

              Check for a ‘auto shut down’ relay. If this is bad, the fuel pump won’t work…

              #506257
              nicholas largenicholas large
              Participant

                don’t be to quick to blame the ecu as most times it turns out to be something more simple ? i would start at the ignition switch then follow wiring diagrams to fuses then relays ? i doubt it would be immobilizer as it would not run at all if that was the case ? you need to find the fuel pump relay remove it and see if it switches when the ignition is cycled. their should be high power side and a low power side if you remove the relay and check with a multimeter you should have 1 positive terminal and 3 negative when ignition is cycled to the on position you should have 2 positive terminals but bare in mind when switched to run position (not crank)the first initial switch cycle will only become live for 3 seconds or so on the lower power side. do this then let me know what results you get ?

                #506259
                nicholas largenicholas large
                Participant

                  good point i missed that one fuel inertia shut off switch sounds like the problem 🙂

                  #506430
                  KevinKevin
                  Participant

                    I’ll try and find it and ck it…thx

                    #508023
                    KevinKevin
                    Participant

                      Quick update…all relays and pump good……cked wire by wire and found shorted out wire in sterring column attached to ignition switch…started right up after…..

                    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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