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My 1998 Mustang LX 4-CYL 2.3L Hatchback would not start with the first turn of the key; if key is left in ON position a h-m-m-m kind of sound is heard and after about one minute the car starts when key is turned, then from then car starts thereafter at each first kick.
It idles rough and if left idling for a moment there is some soot seen on the cement floor down from the tailpipe.
Initially on reversing and driving out the engine will cut off but easily restarts on first turn of ignition key. The car drives rough but less rough than when idling. Fearing something bad may happen, I decided not to drive the car until I find answers to the problem.
I towed it to the car dealer where I bought the auto new and they said that their scanner does not go that for back to 1988.
I then towed it to an auto car care center and they think it has low compression and would charge $3,000 to get a motor for the car: this baffled me since I don’t know what a motor has to do with low compression.
ANY SUGGESTIONS TO SOLVING THE PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR AND SUBSEQUENT REPAR?
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The sound you’re hearing with the key ON is the electric fuel pump, which is normal. It’s possible that your fuel system is losing fuel pressure when the car is parked for extended periods, which would account for the hard start on the first try.
As for tailpipe soot and rough idling/running, the first thing to check would be codes.
with low compresstion with the engine running it uselly runs ruff… and sometimes dies… but you will notice it running ruff… also check for things looking like manase in the oil or oil in the coolent… is tipicl of a bad head gasket… now has the car ever over heated???
it would be a little bit hard to tell… but not to be gross but have you teated it yet.. and felt it between your fingures… take some paper towels (Pure white) and dab it and see what color it is… how long does the stain last… does it leave a resido or does it dry up fully in like 20 mins?
personaly I would question the compression issue… you could have that but it seams like you didnt say that they even tested it… you uselly would also uselly pull up a buch of odd codes….
“Hatchback would not start with the first turn of the key; if key is left in ON position a h-m-m-m kind of sound is heard and after about one minute the car starts when key is turned,”
that might be a going bad fuel pump…. what you should always hear it kick on everytime you turn the key to the on position… now if you hear it kick on after a few sec’s later then that could be a sign of it starting to go bad…. you would have to do more diagnostics on it but that could be it…
if you feeling up to it.. you can rent a compression tester you self for free at most auto part stores and check it yourself… just watch eric videos on how to do one… and check out ther’s videos too… prity easy
if you pull your spark plugs out it will tell you a lot on how your engine is doingI agree with evil-i, I think it is fuel pressure problem. Sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off. fuel can bleed off several different ways, fuel pump check valve, fuel injectors,fuel pressure regulator, and leak. Now I think the black soot is because you are getting extra fuel. That tells me to start with fuel pressure gauge to be sure you are loosing pressure, now if you do not have a gauge, I would start by pulling the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. To be safe, if you can replace it with clear hose just for the test, then you can see if fuel is being pulled through the diaphragm of the regulator. If you see fuel in the hose then it is bad. I think you are getting the extra fuel through that hose, or you have a bad fuel injector that is not completely shutting off or staying on longer then it should.
Thanks for your response.
May be I should include something that happens the first time in the morning I turn the ignition key: I hear that the starter motor operates and the engine rotates but engine will not start. B)
I did put a Ford CP9015 Code scanner in the engine compartment Self-Test connector but the scanner light that turned on did not flash during the Key On Engine Off self test; I checked the scanner booklet and it says if you do not see a flash then there is something to repair first.: this is where I don’t know where to go from here.hanks for your response.
May be I should include something that happens the first time in the morning I turn the ignition key: I hear that the starter motor operates and the engine rotates but engine will not start. B)
I did put a Ford CP9015 Code scanner in the engine compartment Self-Test connector but the scanner light that turned on did not flash during the Key On Engine Off self test; I checked the scanner booklet and it says if you do not see a flash then there is something to repair first.: this is where I don’t know where to go from here.Thanks for your response. To answer your questions:
1. The car overheated last year and that was due to coolant being low in the radiator.
2. I would do the paper towel test when I tow the car back home.
3. Your question about whether the auto shop tested it, I would say they did not; just their off-the-head amount of $3,000 and the mention of a motor turned me off completely. While at home before I towed the car to the auto shop, I did put a Ford CP9015 Code scanner in the engine compartment Self-Test connector, the scanner light turned on but remained on and did not flash during the first recommended test which is the Key On Engine Off self test; I checked the scanner booklet and it says if you do not see a flash(es) then there is something to repair first: this is where I don’t know where to go from here.
4. May be I should include something that happens the first time in the morning I turn the ignition key: I could that the starter motor operates and the engine rotates but engine will not start.
5. I will do pull the spark plug when I tow the car back home.
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