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So my car has ran pretty damn good, I’ve been trying to keep up on repairs if anything happens, but lately i’m dumbfounded, few days ago i was driving home from a job interview, i was at a red light, the car started idling REALLY rough, not even just shaking but thumping etc, after about 30 seconds of that, the car shut off…i was in the middle of full traffic (what fun) so i had to get out, push my car into a parking lot, and i attempted to start it, wouldn’t turn over, just kept running REALLY rough banging and shutting back off, so i called AAA got it home, and now..it’s starting and running, but still pretty rough? i had a buddy come over with a diagnostics tool, and it said it was the camshaft position sensor, so i went to napa and got a new one, threw it in, and still isn’t running properly? i looked up and the symptoms sound like a bad MAF people said, so i took it off and got some MAF cleaner, cleaned it really good and put it back in, no change at all, so confused and have no idea what else to do, i went out lat night and hooked a jumper wire to the connector and wrote down the codes, looked em up, and it’s saying bad camshaft sensor AGAIN? is it possible i got a bad part? or do you think it’s the MAF? or something else? i’m out of options, and i don’t have the money to take it to the garage, closest garage is wanting 150$ just to inspect, any suggestions would be amazing.
Thanks in advance!
side note:i have the CRT monitor in the center dash, gives basic diagnostics, it’s just saying electrical problem detected, i’ve put new plugs, wires, and a new ignition coil in it, not sure what else to do!
also ANOTHER side note i noticed today, it seems fine if i stay under 50? it still idles rough but no shut off, so i took it down a main street, and it seems once i go passed 50, and i started slowing down to in-town speed, is when it starts acting up, and also jerking the car a bit!
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was thinking the same about the magnet..but might try a new sensor first before tearing down the front of the engine to get to the magnet 😛
Before we throw any more parts at it there are a couple of things I’d recommend you try. The first is a power balance test. If you have bad misfires like I think you have you might be able to locate the problem cylinder(s) using this method.
If you don’t make any progress there I would check for a timing chain problem. You can do this by removing the distributor cap and rotating the engine clockwise by hand till the timing marks line up. Then rotate the engine counterclockwise while observing the rotor in the distributor. Once it starts to move, stop and look at your timing marks. If it took you more than 7º of rotation for the rotor to start to move the timing chain has too much slack and should be replaced. A loose timing chain can also set a crank sensor code. Those engines are famous for timing chain issues BTW.
Thanks Eric, and everyone for your suggestions! going to try the balance test tomorrow when it’s not 2am, we recently got quite a bit more snow here in columbus, thank god for garage’s
does anyone have any videos on replacing a cam magnet? mechanic friend said we would need to take the timing cover off etc, and others online say you can do it without doing this..my car doesn’t have a distributor it has a coil pack, i’m not a mechanic, i do basic repairs to my car, so i’m not sure how to turn the engine to line up the hole for the camshaft sensor and the magnet besides turning the key, but they said it’s very difficult that way?
Don’t quote me but I had both an 87 and 89 3.8l GM. As I recall there was only a crank sensor on the 87 that I removed to get at the plastic timing gear (GM saw fit to use bonded gears in 87). I replaced the gears and chain with an all steel set and the 89 came out with all steel. If the 88 has the plastic bonded gears, I would look there. About the easiest test would be to do a compression test on all cylinders. If there is a significant difference between cylinders the timing is probably off.
Did a little checking and it looks like you have the bonded timing gear if it has not been replaced.
[quote=”antid2″ post=47151]does anyone have any videos on replacing a cam magnet? mechanic friend said we would need to take the timing cover off etc, and others online say you can do it without doing this..my car doesn’t have a distributor it has a coil pack, i’m not a mechanic, i do basic repairs to my car, so i’m not sure how to turn the engine to line up the hole for the camshaft sensor and the magnet besides turning the key, but they said it’s very difficult that way?[/quote]
I believe the link I sent covers how to view the magnet.
you will need a socket and ratchet to turn the crank bolt.[quote=”college man” post=47183][quote=”antid2″ post=47151]does anyone have any videos on replacing a cam magnet? mechanic friend said we would need to take the timing cover off etc, and others online say you can do it without doing this..my car doesn’t have a distributor it has a coil pack, i’m not a mechanic, i do basic repairs to my car, so i’m not sure how to turn the engine to line up the hole for the camshaft sensor and the magnet besides turning the key, but they said it’s very difficult that way?[/quote]
I believe the link I sent covers how to view the magnet.
you will need a socket and ratchet to turn the crank bolt.[/quote]+1
Alright guys, i know it’s been a while but with my current tool setup i wasn’t able to do the repair for the magnet, but the magnet was broken off, so i took it to a shop to have them do it, took quite a bit of money, i dont like taking my car to shops but i figure there was nothing else i could do. Anyways long story short, i got my car back, seems they put the wrong size oil seal back on, so it was leaking, took it back again they fixed it for free, finally got it home, and its not dying anymore like before, but i notice if i take it up to about 3000 or 3500 rpms+ and left off the gas, my rpms drop to about 300 and the car shakes like it’s about to stall out, any other suggestions, i’ve been told to check for vacuum leaks, and i’m going to try that when it’s daylight tomorrow, but other than that, any ideas?
Check for vacuum leaks as suggested. Also check your IAC
is working. You could pull it out and clean it.also clean
inside where the IAC lives. see if it helps the idle.no vacuum leaks so far..i sprayed almost all the vacuum lines and ends that i could see, some of them are dry rotted a little and cracked but no difference in idle when spraying, so i will try the IAC, i cleaned my ERG valve today it helped a little bit but problem is still there, but thank you for your reply!
update: got off work and cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner and Q-tips, tons of carbon, put it back together and no change, one of my friends said it sounds like a vacuum leak because my idle isn’t rough, but sitting and just idling my rpms go from 550-800 every 1-2 seconds it changes, not noticeable by listening but i can see my electronic gauge, so i don’t know if that’s a symptom and to be honest the problem isn’t HUGE but it is annoying, it only happens when i hit 3500 or above rpms and take my foot of the gas it drops to 300 and shakes, i haven’t tested it on the road doing that just in park in the driveway so i’m not sure really what’s going on..
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