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try these links to find the idle air control valve (Iacv) the cars should be the same 1987-1997 model years good luck and keep us posted. C8-)
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/X/b/79042321.gif
http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/ContentDe … aintenance
You can also try the link to free Chilton’s online in the ‘How To’ forum to see if that will yield any answers for you.
i will go to the library and pulled the diagram from there i cleaned all the vacuum lines today and car seems a bit more stable but the idle is too rough still, i dont really want to sale the car the engine was rebuilt before i bought it has less then 10k miles on it is a nice car. but who knows when ill get too tired and just say screw it thanks fellas
We have a free link to Chilton’s in the ‘How To’ forum unless you need to go to the library for anything else C8-)
Has it had a tune up lately?
Does it have good clean gas in it (Dumb question I know but who knows)?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?yes i did the idle was too rough now is a bit stable but still goes up and down it looks like it wants to die when i hit the gas
If you’re having a performance issue don’t assume it’s the idle switch. I would start by looking for 2 things, vacuum leaks and voltage leaks.
Vacuum leaks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok+voltage leaks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-U9WqJfaJsYou may also try bleeding the cooling system. If air is getting trapped near the ECT, it could be throwing your idle off. SIDE NOTE: a bleeder valve is not nessessary to do this procedure, and many cars do not have one. The funnel Eric uses is a Lisle tool, and it’s about $20.
+1 on getting mechanical timing and the ignition timing back to factory specs. I would also check the timing belt tension also.
They do sell a product that is designed for cleaning electronics that you can purchase for just about any auto parts store.
Ok fellas i got the codes for this car
#1 code 11-crank angle sensor
#2 code 22- fuel pump circuit…… the fuel circuit is open or shorted
#3 code 33-exhaust gas sensor…. the exhaust gas sensor circuit is open
those are the codes i have so far i guess i have to buy a crank sensor
how can i check the other 2 any tips thanks
the car would hardly turn on i clean the vacuum lines use a lil air compressor turned it down to 7psi went around to all the hoses didnt feel any leak all the hoses are new after i did that the car started up and it works ok is not all that but idle is not jumping up and down all crazy…
i went to library and there is 2 things that i havent done according to the book check the crank sensor under my distributor i just removed it and it is kind of dirty
the diagram said that that could be 1 of the causes now the question is how to clean that sensor.it also said my timing and i know for a fact my timing is off i have to get to that today..
it also said sparkplugs,wires,coil,fuel regulator but all of this have being replaced
o sorry erick i took the car to the electric or mechanic electrician what ever he is called according to him am all good with all the harness and all
well get the timing issue back to factory spec. clean the cps and post back on your progress. you might want to recheck the fuel pressure
it was high.good luck and keep us posted. C8-)Code 11 – The best method in testing your crank sensor is with a lab scope unfortunately. However you can try to ohm out the sensor and see if you can compare the readings to factory specifications or with another sensor. You also need to check the integrity of your wiring going to and from the sensor for power and ground. I would recommend some voltage drop testing.
Code 22 on some Nissan’s also refers to the IACV circuit so you will need to clarify which code represents your model.
Code 33 is coming back as a EGR malfunction. Is the EGR valve on your vehicle just vacuum operated or is it also electronically assited?
This is the link i used for the code definitions –
http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-info … codes.html
if you have a scanner that reads live data. plug it in and look for engine rpm. when you crank the car you should see the engine rpm on the scanner.
if you don’t then the cps is bad. check the wiring also at the sensor. I believe if that sensor doesn’t pick up the signal your spark won’t fire.
lets try to diagnose so we can get the car running. keep us posted. C8-)
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