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1987 Jeep cherokee 4.0L sputtering?

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  • #550678
    Justin MacNeilJustin MacNeil
    Participant

      Hi guys!, new member here with a very odd problem that’s been haunting me the past month…

      So, the story goes, I have a 1987 Jeep cherokee cheif with 316,000kms. It has a Non H.O 4.0L or the “Renix” if your experienced around older cherokees and its a 5 speed. I bought this little gem as a graduation gift for myself at the beginning of summer, which i used all summer to go back and fourth to my job every week which is a lengthy 400km drive!

      It never gave me any problems, minus getting hot going up the steep mountains, but it was later found out that i had half a radiator :whistle: So I changed it with a good one from a donor jeep. That worked well up until about a month ago,

      I was driving home from a friends and all of a sudden without any warning it just started running like garbage… sputtering, misfiring really bad,and wouldent idle unless i had my foot down a bit.. so I pulled over and let it somewhat idle for a minute, which then it cleared up and was acting normal again. :S So I got home,and went to go do other things.

      Later that evening I decided i wanted to go get a coffee, But when I got in my “trusty” old jeep and started it the engine shot up right to 3,000rpms! So I immediatly shut it down and opened the hood to check.

      All the vacuum lines were on and after taking the intake tube off I could see the throttle plate was still closed, So I hopped onto cherokeefourm.com to get some insight, immediatly everyone started posting “Oh its your idle air control valve and throttle position sensor” So I went out and bought two new ones, put them on… and It went back to normal!… for about 2 minutes, then right back to 3,000rpms. So I decided to try another throttle body i had sitting around, I cleaned it put my sensors onto it and threw it on.. and it did the same thing

      But I noticed if you plug off the Idle air control valve port the idle will drop down to about 900-1000rpms.

      [Picture of current “band-aid” which is the peice of cloth jammed into the upper left opening]
      [URL=http://s996.photobucket.com/user/kurama49/media/IMG_0842_zpsd7173c6a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/kurama49/IMG_0842_zpsd7173c6a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

      So with the idle addressed enough so that i could take it for a drive, I noticed it had this weird sputter… as if the engine would die for half a second, then come back to life, this worsened the warmer the jeep was and the more open the throttle was and or if it was under a heavy load. So back to cherokeefourms, and I had everyone saying “try this, Try that, clean this, upgrade this,etc”

      So me being a nitpick about used parts due to a little fire with my 78 chevy All of these parts are brand new that I’ve tryed [Minus the injectors cause i had a good set laying around] So that little list of everything I’ve tryed is:

      Replaced the cap,rotor,plugs,coil,wires, and crank position sensor. To rule out everything with the ignition system.

      Replaced the Fuel pump,fuel filter, and Replaced the injectors with ones from a H.O to rule out the fuel system

      I’ve gone through all the wiring, cleaned every connector i could find, took apart every ground and cleaned them to bare metal and Made sure there are no vacuum leaks.

      And for senors I’ve replaced the Idle air control valve, Throttle position senor, MAP sensor and the crank position sensor.

      So at this point I’m stumped. I cant think of anything else, I actually took it to a garage, who had it there for 3 weeks… and simply called me saying “We give up on it, come get it out of our lot.” I even took it to the jeep dealer here in sydney, and the only thing they could suggest is changing the computer.

      So please, if anyone else could give me some insight on this it would be amazing! And sorry for such a long first post, I wanted to give as much detail as I could.

      and I’ll just leave a picture of the said jeep incase anyone is curious on how it looks.

      [URL=http://s996.photobucket.com/user/kurama49/media/IMG_0877_zps7e60cf95.jpg.html][IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/kurama49/IMG_0877_zps7e60cf95.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

      And a short video link to a kind of not so good video to show the problem.
      [URL=http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/kurama49/IMG_0828_zps6384348f.mp4][IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/kurama49/th_IMG_0828_zps6384348f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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    • #550693
      dandan
      Moderator

        did they scan the vehicle?

        #550814
        Justin MacNeilJustin MacNeil
        Participant

          They couldent because its OBD1 … which no one around here has a scanner for, and or just simply dont want to touch it.

          #550829
          college mancollege man
          Moderator

            see if this helps.

            #550869
            BillBill
            Participant

              I hate throwing parts at a car and hope to hit the right component. Whomever said a computer problem might be correct however.

              Since your Jeep has the old RENIX (Renault) system it could be anything but I have seen a few computers with failed solder joints inside as well as broken wires on the pick-up coil inside the distributor.

              Remove the distributor cap and lightly tug on the pickup coil wires to see if they are broken or disconnect the vacuum advance hose from the distributor and drive it to see if it runs better.

              If OK Remove the ECM, connect the wiring plugs and start the engine. Place the computer on your flat hand and tap on it with a screwdriver handle. Grab onto it from opposite corners and twist it back and forth. If the engine falters or idles up or down there is a good chance the computer is bad.

              #550895
              dandan
              Moderator

                obd 1 systems are different than OBD2 for sure…

                #552159
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  OBD1 systems didn’t often require scanners. The self test that college man posted might be a good guide for that. As for the issue, I think we can rule out the parts that you’ve replaced. That said, you might be looking at an electrical issue. It doesn’t sound like the shop you took it to was up to the task. You might try another shop that is more versed in electronic diagnosis. Yes, OBD1 vehicles are a bit more difficult to diagnose, but not impossible. One last thing I will suggest is to check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks can cause all kinds of issues including idle problems and misfires. It’s worth checking but based on your description I’m thinking you have some sort of electrical issue that’s effecting the engine control system. Checking for codes would be a good start for that theory.

                  Good luck and keep us posted.

                  #552324
                  Justin MacNeilJustin MacNeil
                  Participant

                    I tryed the key-trick. turns out my 87 doesent have a check-engine light. but unfortunately the syncros for 1st and 5th went in the transmission So I ended up just giving up and i went out and bought a 93 cherokee 2 door. With the much more common 4.0 high output.

                    #553751
                    EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                    Keymaster

                      That is one solution. Thanks for the update and for using the ETCG forum.

                      #556123
                      JulianJulian
                      Participant

                        AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! Just when it was getting interesting 🙂 :woohoo:

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