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My very first brake job.
It took forever due to rusted bolts and I had to buy a MAPP gas torch, but I finally got the brakes apart. The rotors and pads were simply astonishingly bad and rusted, no brake pads left really.
So, I finally found time to go and put the first brake back together. Got the rotor on, the caliper bracket bolted in, the brake pad clips and pads, I slide the caliper body back onto the caliper pin (which was still in the bracket when I disassembled the brake and never took it out) on the caliper bracket, and go to pull the caliper body down over the pads. However, the caliper body refuses to slide down past the pads and doesn’t line up with the bottom caliper bolt.
I lost daylight at this point and put it on hold for tomorrow. My only guess: does the caliper pin have to be loosened up when re-assembling everything because right now it’s at maximum tightness and won’t allow everything to come together that way?
Otherwise I’m stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. – If you remember my first thread hear asking about my manual transmission, just a quick update: school started up again and I don’t have much car time, so I’m going to change the transmission fluid right after the front brakes are done before the wheels go back on.
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You have to make sure that the piston in the caliper is fully seated back. You can use a C-Clamp or a special tool.
Also the guide pin bolts should be fully removable also.
Do the new pads and rotors look identical to the old ones?
I forgot to mention I already pushed the piston all the way in and the pads and rotors do look identical.
Thanks.
I’ll have to check everything tomorrow with some measurements, but yes the rotor looked identical. The hub is clean and the caliper bracket and rotor itself appear to be together properly and identical with the opposite brake which hasn’t been fully disassembled yet.
I realize this is really hard to help me with since you’re not here with me, so tomorrow I’m just going to take advantage of the additional sunlight, measure things, compare the other side, and take some pictures if I’m still stuck.
Thank you so far though!
I recommend taking the part numbers from both the pads and rotors and going online to the parts store website and verifing that you were sold the correct parts. I mention this because I recently had a parts store sell me the wrong pads for a 95 dodge ram ( gave them every bit of info they could need and still goofed- sold me pads for a 8800 gross weight when it needed a 7500 gross weight and yes I gave them the weight ) they look the same , fit the caliper but are too thick to slip over the new rotors ) just a thought. fyi – I always look up my own part numbers but didnt this time. never again. LOL
Are the slide pins free ? With the rust you had I would expect them to be frozen in place. They should move freely. That would def cause your issue.
Just an update.
Thanks for all your help. Since this is my first hands on brake experience, I’m absolutely positive at this point it is the caliper pin/bolt being unable to slide. Right now I’m stuck trying to remove the metal tube that the bolt slides into, the one surrounded by two rubber seals. Unfortunately, it is also rusted into place and attempts using a c-clamp to get it out have failed. It will take a lot of time I’m guessing, and I’m still only on the first brake. Rust really has destroyed my confidence.
I’ll give an update whenever I get this first brake on properly, but it may be days given the homework I have on top of this issue.
Thanks for all of the help as always!
Thanks for all of your help! It was my lack of knowledge and inexperience that resulted in my problem.
It was the pin locked into place via rust and not sliding. I also saw a tear in the rubber piece, so I replaced all of the rubber seals, that pin sleeve that was stuck, which I was forced to remove with a torch, hammer, and tapered punch. I finally got my first brake all assembled with new parts and while I can’t really test it yet until others are completed and I bleed the brakes/get fluid situated, I can move the rotor with my hand freely so it all appears to be in good order.
I also managed to get the other brake caliper assembly and will work on that indoors later tonight.
Thanks so much once again, I’m sure I’ll be back here someday soon. Within 1-2 years I’m taking auto tech classes at the community college, so I can’t wait for that.
Great job!!!! 🙂
I feel your pain dealing with rust. When i have to do alignments on rusty vehicles, i usually want to torch my eyes out 🙁
As for the slide pins I often remove them and clean them with a wire wheel if they get that rusty. Also it’s VERY important that you use silicone past to lubricate the slide pins. Other lubricants can actually dry up and cause the pins to stick again. Otherwise well done. Keep us posted on any new developments.
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