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Trying to keep it going as long as possible. I have almost no chance of replacing it. And, I REALLY love this van!
I kept the seats out of my totaled 1997 E350, so I installed those.
It had a ticking noise, so I changed the plugs and wires. The plugs were all rusted into place, which I found out is most likely caused by the windshield washer filters. I’ll be replacing them as soon as I can. It still has a slight ticking, so I think I need to check my timing. I’ll do that as soon as I can get a timing light.
It had no power, so I replaced the fuel filter. I also replace the air filter. It idles better and no longer wants to surge, but still has no power. I want to change the EGR valve as well as adjust the timing to see if that helps. I also suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, I think I smell exhaust while driving.
There is oil all around the motor. I’m going to change the head gasket and the rings (kinda scared to do this myself, but no choice). I don’t believe that the engine is showing any real signs of failing, but not positive since I’m new to this. I recently had the oil and filter changed by a place willing to let me see the oil, and I believe it looked good. Oh yeah, does anyone have a dipstick? Mine broke (thankfully not in the engine) and I can’t locate another one.
The transmission is leaking around the bottom seal. It’s not enough to make a puddle, but collects around the pan. It looks brand new, and does not have any odd smells to it. The guy who changed my oil said that it looks like it was recently changed and the bolts were over tightened. So, I’m thinking I really won’t hurt it anymore to replace the fluid, filter and gasket. Does anyone think this would be a bad idea? I’m not experiencing any slipping or hesitation at all.
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I’m sorry I didn’t see this sooner. #1 you are never going to see outstanding performance from one of these motors. They are torquey, not fast. Anyways, they do run for forever. Like forever forever. You can run them on 5 cylinders with a rod sawing through the oil pan and a bad head gasket for damn near forever (guess me how I know that 👿 ) Anyways, a ticking could be valvetrain related. These parts are really cheap, and if you go ahead and do anything with the valvetrain I would also recommend using a cam like a comp cams 252H. You’d see a bit more torque.
Also if you want a bit more oomph, I would recommend a clifford or offy type intake manifold, EFI exhaust manifolds, a 390 or so CFM carb and a better exhasut (hell you could go dual exhaust with glasspacks, that would sound mean).
I’ll include links to all the hop up parts I was going to use and an est. dyno figure-ish. Anyways, these are good motors and will outlast you.
Headers – http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-89300/overview/make/ford
Cam – http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-66-248-4/overview/make/ford
Intake – http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ofy-6019dp/overview/make/fordDyno #’s with a 600 cfm carb
are right around 210 hp and 330 ft-lbs of torque300 six is truly awesome, reliable as anything, so much so even chevy guys will talk them up from time to time. As far as your tranny pan it is steel and you can straighten the rim and there are videos on youtube showing how. EFI headers fit the older engines and are like cast headers with dual outlet. And there is no timing chain, it is gear on gear, partially why it is sooo reliable =).
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