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I would use plenty of PB blast with a good quality Torx socket and breaker bar..
Worse case scenario, you may need to use some heat if your trying to remove that idler pulley.
I see plenty of room for a hammer and punch but that said I know it may seem like more work but why not remove the assembly from the car and work with it on the bench?
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I see plenty of room for a hammer and punch but that said I know it may seem like more work but why not remove the assembly from the car and work with it on the bench?
because i would have to take apart half of the engine to get it out, there is a bar holding it in the back that is buried under the throttle body and the intake manifold. and the dumb bolt/screw thing took the point right off of my punch, i have to go out and get a new one.
I would just cut the head off the fastener , slip the pulley off and remove the rest of the bolt with vice grips. an air cutter w/4” wheel will make quick work of it ( or a dremel ) if you can’t get all the way through the bolt cut as deep as you can then use a long chisle and hammer to finish it off.
It’s 90ish% fixed. the new bearings are in and my steering wheel offers some resistance now when i turn, (most of the play is in the steering column, when the key is out of the ignition it still has slop) my only problem now it, my front drivers side brake will not retract, it stays in the open position. not bad enough that i cant drive, but enough that it will wear it down alot faster than normal.
You may have a sticking piston on your caliper or a kink or restriction in your brake hose causing the fluid not to retract.
Also be sure to check the caliper slides to make sure they are clean and properly lubricated, here is a video that I did on changing pads and rotors which shows the methods and lubricant’s that I use in that situation. If the slides are good than it could be a caliper or hose problem as suggested.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAviOGXzEUk
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