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I have searched everywhere and done pretty much all I can think of besides the big $$ items on this vehicle and I need some expert help!
I have a 2009 Honda CR-V LX 2WD Automatic Trans. It has 150k miles on it and in June 2016 it started to act up. When driving in town in traffic/stop light conditions it seems to be reving up and hunting for idle while slowing down. Once the car is stopped it is fine. Accelerating is fine. It’s just when slowing down and when the car changes gears. It has recently started acting up when started and idling in the driveway. It will randomly rev up like its cold and wanting to fast idle about 1300RPM, then settle back down to its 800RPM. I did an experiment and accelerated to about 30mph then put the transmission into N. The car would bounce idle between 700RPM and 1700RPM until the car came to a stop then it would sit back at 800RPM. Very strange. I tried many things and the dealership was also stumped. They would tell me it was fixed and I would go get it and a mile down the road it would be crazy again. I will randomly get a CEL for P0507 (Idle RPM higher than expected). This turns on and off throughout the week. No other codes. Below is a list of what I have done, the dealership has done, and a guy I found on the internet has done for the same issue with his. This is a 2.4L and has an electronic throttle body so no IAC, or FITV. The dealership is thinking a full ECM replacement.
Here is a video I took of the bouncing RPM’s
https://youtu.be/-ET7t5RW8Z0https://youtu.be/-ET7t5RW8Z0MY FIXES:
Replaced all 4 sparks, was thinking incomplete combustion. (No changes)
Cleaned Throttle Body (No changes)
Tried a different Throttle Body (No changes and put the original back on)
Replaced EGR valve gasket (thought a leak, no changes)
Cleaned and inspected EGR, seemed fine.
Carb cleaner trick on all vacuum lines looking for leaks (found nothing)
Idle Relearn procedures after every attempt (No changes)
Cleaned MAF Sensor and replaced Air Filter (No Changes)DEALERSHIP FIXES:
PCV valve replacement (no changes)
ECM flash and cleaned connectors (no changes)
Cleaned idle air control built into Electronic TB (no changes)EDGARD’S FIXES:
Valve adjustment (no changes)
3rd Pressure switch in transmission (no changes)Thanks for any and all help!
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Thank you for the response. I have ensured the radiator was full and that the cap was functioning properly. The reservoir was also at the proper level. I was thinking about doing a coolant flush on it and starting fresh. We have put 10k miles on the car since it started acting up, do you think if there was an air bubble it would work its self out after that long?
Air entrapment ( if it is the issue ) can linger around for quite some time depending on the water jacket and sensor layout design of the engine.
hey buddy dose that model have a temprature gauge if so is it working correctly as it looks to me like its trying to go in to cold start open loop running
I have no idea what the fuel trims look like. I have nothing to check it with either. The car is bone stock. As for the temperature gauge, it is working correctly to the best of my knowledge. It has never overheated. It usually hits operating temperature after about 5 mins and doesn’t budge from that spot. We still take it on long drives like the 600 miles we put on it Tuesday with no issues on the highway. I am going to try to find time later this week or this weekend to burp the coolant system. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully we can figure this out! Its such a strange problem that it only bounces around when moving, even with the trans in N.
OK i finally got a chance to burp the coolant system and it did not fix the problem. There may have been some air in there but not much. There were no changes to the way it acts. I have heard from others that it could be an alternator issue. The alternator can start acting up and causing the car to do all sorts of weird things because everything is electronic requiring specific voltage and amps. The alternator tested fine for volt output but maybe its fluctuating when its in gear because its controlled electronically. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the help.
I thought that but it’s Incorporated into the electronic throttle body and I’ve already replaced that.
I replaced the alternator and the battery today thinking maybe it was an electrical surge of some sort. No changes :angry: Anyone have any other ideas of what it could be??
Here is a link to another video of the same issue on another guys CR-V which also has some diagnostic info. Maybe this can help some one out? Thanks for any input!
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