- This topic has 10 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Ford Tarus X 6 cyl fwd…Driving home and front brakes started a grind from hell….about a year ago had a shop do all pads and turned rotors. Have noticed a flutter/vibration in the wheel lately so figured rotors finnaly going out. When I pulled it apart, passenger side was like new with hardly any pad or rotor wear. The driver side on the other hand, outside pad at about half, and the inside no pad left down to metal. What is your best guess?
-
Replies
-
Pull the caliper and try to compress it. If it doesn’t go in then you may have a stuck caliper. if you suspect this open the bleeder valve and try it again and if it goes in then you have a bad hose. Also, check and see if the pad is getting hung up on the bracket and that everything moves freely.
On all disc brakes, there is a Caliper, A Caliper bracket, two pads, and a rotor. The caliper bracket holds the caliper, and there are pins where the caliper bolts on to the bracket. These pins allow the caliper to squeeze both sides of the rotor evenly. If those pins rust up, it will cause all of your braking to be done on the inside, and none on the outside. You can usually take the bracket off and free up those pins, but if you cant, you will need to order new pins and a new bracket. Clean them off really good with a wire brush and wipe them down good with brake cleaner. Make sure you lube those pins up with Silicone Past and not any other kind of grease or oil! You also dont need alot, just enough to coat the pins.
Thanks for the ideas….I replaced both rotors, and both set of pads. I used c clamp to compress caliper and pulled off ok. removed cage to remove rotor with no issues either. not really sure about any pins unless you mean the bolts that secure cage to wheel or bolts that secure caliper to cage? when I replaced I used brake silicone on all for reassemble. just worried about unusual wear and dont want it to re-occur.
[quote=”college man” post=47032]you either have a stuck caliper not retracting or the
slide pins are not moving or both.Great suggestions so far. The above videos show how to check and service the calipers. The lubricants used are VERY important. Using the wrong lubricants can cause the caliper to hang up and fail. I’m actually coming out with a video Friday on how to inspect a caliper. The suggestion of compressing the piston to see if it moves easily is pretty much what you need to do. Keep us posted on what you find.
Well, all was going fine and now the grind has returned. PLanning on removing front drivers side again today since this was the side that was bad before. I did use silicone when replaced first time but did not clamp hose as never replaced caliper..Now i will check bleeder valve and hose as well as be sure pins are well lubed. Is there any way to lube piston or be sure before about caliper before replacement of caliper. Also will check rear just to be sure.
Well I finally got the rear off…this time passenger inside shoes down to metal..pulled pistons out and were pretty stiff with very little lube. Also this time rotar shot as well… replaced pads and rotars and lubed like crazy.. had to use the special tool to compress piston like in video but did go in so hopefull caliper is still good…
crazy why opposite end/side of car had exact same issue?????
is it possible that piston in caliper SOMETIMES will go in and other times not? seems like random issue. can drive for a whole day with no grind and then go to stop and GRRRRRRR. then goes away for a day or more…any ideas why this would happen?
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.