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I have a 2007 Saturn Relay with about 52,000 miles. About a month ago I starting having trouble with crank/no start. One day it would start, the day it wouldn’t. Took it in and they said I needed a new fuel pump. So, I paid a small fortune :ohmy: and got a new fuel pump. Now, about 2-3 weeks later I’m having trouble again with crank/no start. Same as before. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn’t. 🙁
Any thoughts on what the problem may be? Bad fuel pump or entirely new problem?
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Check the fuel pressure and according to the factory manual, you can be sure if you need to change you pump and the fuel filter. Start and go off after, sound like fuel.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piOzN1tZI_E[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdpP4wxBvpA[/video]check engine light on? post codes if on.Spray stater fluid in the
intake. If it starts fuel issue. also check the fp relay you may
be able to swap it with one there.
No check engine light on last time or this time
Well, took my van back to the shop that put the new fuel pump in a few weeks ago. They kept it from Thursday until Saturday and it never acted up while it was there. They said they checked the pump, fuel pressure, relay switch and everything checked out fine. End result ended up being to tell me to keep driving it and I’ll have to let the problem get worse before they can determine what the issue is.
The day I took it in, it didn’t give me any trouble either and I had started it 3 times that day. The day before it took me three tried before it finally started.
So, I’m hoping it will not act up for a little while and hopefully my husband will be home and can handle it soon. In the meantime, just hoping if it gives me trouble it’s when I’m still at home or out alone and not when I have kids with me!
Thanks for everyone who tried to help me out, really appreciate it 🙂
I had a very similar issue to yours that caused caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor. The temp indicator in the dashboard was pegged into the HOT zone even though the car was cold haven’t not been run over night. It was intermittent for me and it did eventually throw a check engine light.
Try looking at your gauge to see if it appears normal and have you tried scanning your car for pending codes ? You can do it free at Autozone or similar places.
I haven’t noticed it showing it was hot….but I haven’t really been looking for it either. I’ll make sure to pay attention to it next time it won’t start. Thanks!
Haven’t had it checked for codes. I would think the shop would have done that, but I probably shouldn’t assume that and have it checked.
How to diagnose a faulty fuel pump step by srep every aspects
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piOzN1tZI_EI had a very similar issue to yours that caused caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor. The temp indicator in the dashboard was pegged into the HOT zone even though the car was cold haven’t not been run over night. It was intermittent for me and it did eventually throw a check engine light.
I would love to back probe this GM dual resolution ECT… but I probably got a good 2 inches of side clearance (item #9):
Guess it’s time to find a scan tool that can display sensor data (the good folks at autozone just pull codes) Might swing by a local shop with a case of beer and look for a bored mechanic standing around, start a little chit-chat then ask to borrow a scan tool.
Oh honey, I just love it when you send me complicated diagrams 👿
There’s a shop in town that does free diagnostics, which I am assuming means a scan tool would be involved. No beer needed. We can drop it off there once you get home. Then play (well we won’t really even have to play) poor and say we’ll come back when we can and you can take it from there.
It’s this place:
[quote=”ace8489″ post=58075]I had the same problem with a 92 grand prix. It ended up being a crank shaft sensor.[/quote]
I agree. This is worth investigating. My understanding is that if the ECU doesn’t see a signal from this sensor it will disable the fuel pump. I don’t know if this is the case for your particular car.
Sensors can fail cold but work fine at warm temp. That’s why in our lab, we test these sensors over a range of temps to reproduce these failures.
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