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I tried searching but didn’t quite find what I was looking for and hoping someone here could offer info.
Due to both rear disc brake calipers being corroded and the pistons not retracting well at all, I recently replaced both rear calipers, brackets, hardware and pads. Also lubed all needed points on the calipers and pad sliding area. Bled both numerous times until there was no air. Car drives and stops well, no noise etc. However when checking disc temps after testing (checking for hot like previous dragging that was happening) both LH front and rear discs read pretty much the same. The RH font was around 100 degrees higher around 203 compared with the two LH ones at around 113 or so however the RH rear was around 88 or so. Numerous drives and the same result. Almost like the RH rear isn’t grabbing as much. Checked for air again, none. Not a huge deal, just curious.
Now onto the parking brake. It no longer holds the car in place and believe it needs adjustment. If I read it right, I think Honda says to loosen the adjustment nut and make sure the little arm at the calipers is touching the stop. Then to adjust it so that at one click up you get slight dragging on the wheel. Right now (wheels off) at one click the LH rear wheel stops and the RH wheel doesn’t seem to grab much at all. I was planning on looking at this this weekend. My question is after pulling the wheels to check the arm touching the stop, do you reinstall the wheel and then adjust for one click drag. I obviously will have more leverage to spin the rotor against the drag with a wheel on vs off and wanted to verify the procedure so I don’t induce too much drag etc.
Thanks again for any help.
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Did you replace/resurface the rotors and pads? If they were dragging they may have gotten over heated and become “glazed. ” this would effect the component’s performance. If there is a glazing of the pad surface this may account for the temperature differences. That being said, many other variables could cause this (tire pressure, tread wear, worn struts/suspension components, etc). If you’re driving it around the block before each test, one. side is going to be hotter than the other. This is because; if you’re only making left turns, the brakes on the right side are working harder and will, therfore, be hotter.
Adjust each side with the wheels on. At one click you just want the pads kissing the rotor. Male sure the pads aren’t dragging when you release the parking brake handle.Thanks. I did not resurface or replace the rotors but did replace all the pads. The test drives were making various turns, not just in one direction. I will monitor them and try the parking brake adjustment this weekend. Thanks for the info on having the wheels on.
I would recommend getting the rotors turned. That way you have a clean level surface for those new pads.
I recently replaced rear calipers on a similar car. The parking brake did not hold the car in reverse, and the lever could be raised with almost no resistance. The parking brake cables moved freely when the remanufactured calipers were installed. I tried to adjust the brake by pulling the lever 50+ times without success. The next day, I pulled up on the lever while the brakes applied with the engine was running (out of frustration, not reason). Afterwords, the parking brake functioned correctly, although I don’t know why. It was 0F and may have been temperature related, the part had sat on a shelf for over a year based on the QC date and may have needed some mechanical coercion, etc. I haven’t ruled out black magic at this point.
It might worthwhile to inspect the action of the cable, lever, and spring mechanism at the caliper as the parking brake is applied before adjusting the cable.
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