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After a year, the heater problem is still here.
What I’ve done so far, is replacing the thermostat and a coolant flush.
None of that worked, I’m thinking it’s a sensor or climate sensor that’s bad inside.
Because when I was pulling out of the car wash one time, the heater started working and was warm enough I had to turn the thing down.
Then of course it stopped working.
The car has 208,000km on it now.
I’ve checked fuses and checked the codes on it too. It does have a P0036 Heated o2 sensor. And that’s all the codes there was.this is the GLS 2.7 v6 model with the awd option.
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As far as I know the system was properly bleed. It worked when the guy who did that flush. Then a day or 2 later, it stopped blowing warm air.
If it was fine immediately after the flush, it would appear to be a blocked heater core. It’s pretty simple to diagnose if you can locate the heater hoses at the firewall. Simply touch them while the engine is hot and they should be about the same temperature. If there is a huge difference, there is an issue.
The unnamed product is CLR, it will remove deposits from the core itself. If you don’t have compressed air, you can use a garden hose to rinse it out.
actually i was wrong, the system was flushed 3 times. So i don’t really think it is clogged. IS there like a sensor or something that needs to be replaced? like a environment sensor or a air temp sensor? Because im quite sure the heater core is fine.
Did you ever figure out your problem? If it worked well one time and you turned it down and then it stopped working, I would look at a possible temperature door actuator or heater control problem. The temp door actuator is a small electric motor on the heater case up in the dash which will move a door or flap inside the case based on where you set your temperature control to. When you have no heat, what does the temperature gauge on the dash display? If it reads normal, I would look at the electrical side of the heater system next. If it reads high, it could be a faulty new thermostat or air still trapped in the system. If you take the rad cap off when the engine is cold, then start it up and let it idle, the coolant level in the rad should gradually rise as the engine warms up. Also, look for bubbles in the coolant with the engine running. Was the thermostat that you installed the oem spec for opening temperature? A lot of aftermarket companies make thermostats for vehicles that open sooner or later than the oem temperature spec. I would recommend sticking with the oem temp rating. It might sound silly, but have you tried hooking up a scanner and scanning for codes? You might find something there related to the heating system that might point you in the right direction.
I haven’t found out the problem, it isn’t bothering me as of right now because I’m thinking if trading the car in. I think it’s the environment sensor if there is one, and the engine temperature is normal and has never went above it. The codes that were on it were are:P0036 Heated o2 sensor
Also the ac isn’t working to its full potential, it’s blowing cold air but it’s not as cold as it has been. (when I bough the car brand new, it was like a fridge inside the car and now it’s like half of that)
I will take a look at the controls for it, because possibly it could be he controls just not working properly lol..
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