04′ HONDA CRV Shudder, what to look for??

Hi Guys,

Hoping to get some suggestions on what I can do before I bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic…

I have an OCT 04′ built, Generation 2, Manual, HONDA CRV. Located Sydney, AUSTRALIA

For some time it shudders/shakes, usually during acceleration or cruising at highway speeds, usually 40km/ph (25mph) or over.

I’ve removed the Drive Shaft and inspected the U-Joints, they seem fine. (it’s currently still off the vehicle)

I’ve taken the car in to to get wheel alignment and balance, problem still there. The place that did the wheel alignment/balance test drove the car & said it was the Dynamic Dampener/ Rear Diff mounts causing it.. though with the Drive Shaft removed, it still does it, and sort of feels like it’s coming from the front. (I know it could still be them, thought I’d get a second opinion before coughing up $500)

I’ve inspected the front CV Axles and am in the process of removing them so I can get a better inspection of the inner axle joints. I read that when inner CV joints go bad, they can easily cause a shudder during acceleration, whereas, outer joints make a clickity-clack sound.

If the boots on the CV Axles appear intact and not damaged.. what’s the chances of the joints still being bad?

There’s some play in the link between the Axle and the Axle extension(? if that’s what it’s called, see in video?)

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkHN2MMu1eU&feature=youtu.be[/video]

The inner and outer joints themselves feel very smooth and easy to move around (like a joystick), moving them side-to-side though they don’t move.. so it feels like the drivers side (front right) axle it ‘ok’.

Unfortunately, I can’t seem to remove the passenger side axle 🙁 . I can’t get the knuckle? Pin?? drawing a blank, sorry.. this part..

EDIT#1 Manage to remove the outer part of the axle from the hub.. unfortunately the inner joint is stuck in the transmission.
When I try to put it out, there’s tiny movement.. but feels like it’s locked in there.. maybe with a clip of some sort?

EDIT#2 Got the Axle out. Came in through the other side of the transaxle(?) case where the other axle slots into, used a flat head to slip past the pin and a few taps, it popped out.

inspection, rubber boots look fine. Joints seems to move ok (like joystick), no play moving side-side.

Are there any other methods of testing these joints in case of damage under the boot?

I’ve looked at the engine/transmission mounts, they seem intact and not broken. Though quick Q: if there’s a tiny split in the mount(s), say 5mm long.. usually in the corner(s), is that normal for it’s age or do the mounts have to be 100% defect free??

Clutch seems to engage/disengage ok.. what does a slipping clutch feel like?? I’ve stalled the car a few times..so clutch seems to be working?

Gear changing seems fine. Though sometimes there might be a slight *thunk* when I initially put the car into gear after starting it up, either reverse or 1st.. otherwise seems fine.

EDIT Car seems to Idle fine too.

I really don’t know what else to try.. I guess after this, I’m going to do a service on the car, primarily the fluid changes.. it’s about due.

Manual Transmission (HONDA or can I use name-brand aftermarket ??)
Engine Oil
Rear Diff
Front Diff(??? is there one or does it share with transmission oil??)

Are there any tests I can do with the engine or transmission ?

(note) I did have a check engine light come on last year with the code: P0420. I OBD removed it, it came back after about 100km. I went under the car to check out the cat, noticed there was some oil covered the outside from an oil leak I had. After cleaning it up, cleared the code again. The other day, it came back on (several months after).. not sure if this has anything to do with it.. Ill probably have to remove the cat, try clean it some then re-install.. see if that helps?? But heard that code could also be an O2 Sensor.

I would have taken it to a mechanic by now.. but I really don’t want to play their guessing game and end up with an unnecessary bill for excess parts I never needed to change to begin with. If I can find a reputable mechanic that offers no fix-no fee, flat rate, pay for only parts I need etc.. that would be great.. don’t know where to find one though :/

Any suggestions would be great.