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i have a 04 chevy silverado with the 5.3 and have a rough idle. it has about 112000 miles. i drive between 100 and 200 miles a day. as far as reliability that is good but idles poorly. about 6 months ago i installed intake manifold gaskets on it since that is what i diagnosed by spraying carb cleaner around that area. seemed to have fixed it or at least made it better. but now ever since it have been getting colder out it has been idling rough again. is it possible that the intake manifold gaskets need replaced again??
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When you replaced the gaskets, did you follow the torque sequence and specs? Have you tried another round with the carb cleaner yet?
yes when i installed it i used the torque sequence but one of the bolts is broken i sealed that one. that one is snapped into the block and im sure that’s not cheap to fix.i tried respraying with carb cleaner and it appears to run rougher when i do that. my question is do you think that one bolt could be causing this or could it be a faulty gasket since its only about 6 months old?
Is the “check engine light” on and are there any fault codes? My experience with 5.3s is that if the intake manifold is leaking it will usually set a lean fault code. You might also have a scan tool that reads data connected to check the fuel trims. That would verify a lean condition
You could try cleaning the throttle body and or try an injector flush. Fuel quality is iffy in parts of the country.
If everything you do does not improve the idle you might do a compression test to be sure the engine is mechanically sound.
well this motor is the second to be installed i was told this one has around 90,000 on it. there is no check engine light yet but not sure if there are any stored codes or not. i plan on hopefully buying a scan tool soon to see that. i have checked the throttle body and it seems clean i did clean the mass air flow sensor with the appropriate cleaner and that did help. about a month ago i ran some sea foam to clean it out and the check engine light came on for mutilple misfire i checked the plugs and the appeared fine alot of the wires were torn at the boots. so i replaced those and the light went out. i guess next would be a compression test. it runs like it has a twitch of some sort at idle
It is difficult sometimes to get those bolts out, but i think you should take the time and get that bolt out. All the bolts should be torqued to specifications in the sequence prescribed by the manufacturer. I thought i understood you to have,sprayed around the bolt with carb cleanerwith the result that the engine ran crappy which is what one would expect if the intake manifold is sucking in air because of a poor seal at the bolt. If this is the,case, you need to get that problem taken care of so you are not chasing your tail looking for a problem somewhere else. Good luck. Js.
what would be the best way to remove a bolt that is broken flush into the engine block??
thanks for the help
Drill the bolt enough to get an extractor to bight, or weld a piece of stock onto it and use the stock to back the bolt out. Before you do anything, hit the broken bolt with some penetrating oil, and let it soak in for a few hours. Good luck.
[quote=”Tony214447″ post=115126]what would be the best way to remove a bolt that is broken flush into the engine block??
thanks for the help[/quote]
The broken fastener could contribute to the issue. But it might not be a bad idea to also check compression and possibly do a leak down test.
ok so i ending up replace the whole intake due to it had damage uptop and it was warped so i changed it got that broken bolt out with no problems and tourqed it down in the sequence at first seemed to idle better but now its acually getting worse and the motor is ticking louder at idle i still have not done the compression test yet i was trying to solve what were problems first then go to that.
and if i just did could it take a little while for it to run good again or should it be a mediate i only drove it around a few blocks
Have you checked the fuel system pressure? Also I believe that there is a potential head issue based on the cast numbers.
ok so i finally fixed the rough idle well so i though. i changed the oxygen sensor it had a alot of suit on it and was telling the computer it was lean when it really wasnt. changed that and was running good. then a day later i was driving down the road and the motor started to make a noise like the jeep in Eric’s videos. and it started smoking and shutdown. i only drove maybe 20 feet i was slowing down to pull over i had to coast to a side street. tried to start it and nothing just a click. so i called my neighbor and he pulled me home. i contacted the warranty company and explained it and they looked at it and cant seem to find what failed. they put it down as catastrophic failure and now needs a new engine…..again. this engine would have been hitting around 100000 changed my oil every 10k with full synthetic extended life rated for 15000 and i also had a 15000 mile filter also. didnt make sense to me finally had a good idle and it died
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