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Hello everyone, this is my first post on this forum. First off I would want everyone to know that I am a very confident DIY mechanic and am currently going to school for technician. I for sure do have alot to learn, and recently I have required a 2002 kia rio base model with a 1.5L as a winter beater (I am rebuilding a 8th gen impala otherwise I would never buy this tiny clown car.) Since purchasing the car from a relative, i’ve had a pretty not so nice list of things to get repaired. One of those things are the rear wheel bearings. Now i’ve done wheel bearings on my 03 impala before… that was a sinch, but I havn’t done anything like this. After surfing the web, i’ve concluded that not alot of people are confident in doing this repair procedure and they feel like this is something that can only be done by the kia dealership, specificly because of the new bearings failing after only 5k miles or less multiple times.
Now i’m the type of guy that likes to do the correct procedure the first time, but this one seems a bit complicated. I have signed up on kiatechinfo.com which is basicly what the dealership uses for repair information and the such, which has aided in seeing what the procedure was. After reading, I have gotten a very confused on the preloading bearing part.
Here is the procedure and what makes this difficult:
BEARING PRELOAD
1. Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the grease cap.
4. Rotate the brake drum to make sure there is no brake drag.
5. Seat the bearings by tightening the nut after raising the nut tap.Tightening torque 18~22 lb·ft :(25~29 N·m, 2.5~2.9 kg·m)
[color=#ff0000]6. Loosen the nut slightly until it can be turned by hand.
Before the bearing preload can be set, the amount of seal drag mustbe measured and added to the required preload.7. Use a pull scale and measure the oil seal drag.
8. Pull the scale squarely. Take the oil seal drag value when the wheelhub starts to turn, and record it.
9. Add the oil seal drag value in the previous step to the specified valueof 0.6~1.9 lb (2.6~8.5 N, 0.26~0.87 kg). This isregarded as the standard bearing preload.[/color]
10. Turn the nut slowly to adjust to the standard bearing preload whilechecking with the pull scale.
11. Firmly fix the lock nut to the groove.
12. Install the hub cap.
13. Install the wheel and tire assembly.Tightening torque : 65~87 lb·ft (88~118 N·m, 9.0~12.0 kg·m)
The red is what i’m stuck on, has anyone had this experience before? Also, I see that special tool called a pull drag is required, has anyone had experience with this and where I might be able to purchase one? Also, what is the best way to grease a wheel bearing? By hand or a tool?
Thank you for any replies in advance!
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It sounds like you just need a fish scale like you could get for a few bucks at Walmart. You are just measuring how much force it takes to start the hub turning. First you are measuring the seal drag, then the preload.
As far as greasing wheel bearings, I like the E-z squeeze tool I got from the Snap-on guy. Greasing by hand works, but it’s messy. This tool keeps everything clean, is quick, and does an excellent job of getting the grease in.Okay I looked into the scale and I pick up a digital one from harbor freight. Funny to use a fishing tool on a car. I will also look into the grease packing tool. Do you use lithium grease for this application?
Okay so when I measure the drag, does that mean I add the amount of pounds of drag to the specific preload value? Then would I torque it to that spec? What’s the point of checking the drag again after doing the standard bearing preload? Sorry just trying to understand this all fully.
You first measure the seal drag with no preload, then add that to the preload spec. You are trying to load your bearing to spec, so you have to take the seal drag into consideration. If you didn’t you would be under torqued. I think they have you using a pull scale instead of a torque wrench, because the value would be hard to measure. (only a few inch/pounds)
Any multi purpose grease is okay including lithium. Of course it’s real important to make sure you use clean grease. I saw that E z squeeze on Amazon for like 20 bucks. That’s what I paid for mine 20 something years ago.+1 to roywrench. I always try to get as much of the old grease out of there as possible and repack the bearings with new grease. I have never used a pull scale. I have always had specific torque patterns to follow.
Thank you collegeman for that video, it was everything I needed to know! I’ve been trying to watch all of eric’s videos, there just so many haha. and roywrench22, very useful info also! Everything is clear to me know, but the only question I have is… is it really neccassary to measure the pull drag to properly set the preload? I notice in the video in this topic, that eric does not use such procedure. I’m not sure if this is a standard procedure for all taper bearings so mabye he didn’t need to do it. But then again I don’t really see him use a torque wrench all that often unless its vital such as a cylinder heads.
Also, when they talk of torque specs does it mean to torque to .6 and then to 1.9lb? Just want to clear that up before I do anything lol.
Following the procedure, you should tighten the nut until you reach the proper pull on your pull scale. The pull should be somewhere in the range. If other people are having multiple failures. I would stick to this procedure.
The same procedure is used when you put gears in a rear end. The pinion gear rotating torque has to be set.
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