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Has anyone replaced these on one of these maxima’s?
I was recommended the Motorcraft finewire Platinum plugs. The owner’s manual says replace with only platinum.
Do Japanese car owners have issues using non NGK plugs but still platinum? Are the Motorcraft Finewire Platinum plugs Steel or Nickel and will the difference in metal effect the heat transfer?
Basically I’m thinking the car may not perform as well with Motorcraft Finewire Platinum plugs as opposed to NGK platinum.
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also duble check the gap… you can also up some di-eclectric grease on the tip of the wires it will help the wires from going bad sooner and could help with the spark by making better contact… hell you can also check the resistance of the wires to make sure they are good even if the new wires… sometime are bad… easy test to duble check it
+1 what collegeman said. Use only NGK plugs. For your vehicle, the recommended plug is NGK Laser Platinum PFR5G-11 (which, by the way, is the OE plug).
I got NGK PFR5G-11 and feel good. 15xxxx miles never changed them once. This should be interesting.
Where do I apply the grease to?
The wire is buried in the rubber boot. How do I test the wire and what numbers/setting on multi-meter do I use? What figure am I looking for on the ohms?
[quote=”maxiitech” post=171610]I got NGK PFR5G-11 and feel good. 15xxxx miles never changed them once. This should be interesting.
Where do I apply the grease to?
The wire is buried in the rubber boot. How do I test the wire and what numbers/setting on multi-meter do I use? What figure am I looking for on the ohms?[/quote]
I thought spark plugs are something like 6k-3k ohms… but deponds on length…. so if your reading like 500k ohms that cabe is bad… but if you see a burned connecor the cable probly has some really high value and is going bad…. now the connecotr might not of been connected fully and cuasing an ark to jump on the wire burning it… thats why I use di-electrig grease… to help provent it…. you add it to where the wire meets the spark plug I would also add some to the other end where the coil pack is too..(the grease looks like the stuff they put on when you get an ultra sound scan)
anti seize gets put on the threds of the spark plug socket where between spark plug and head… will help you next time to provent it from sezing up…when you want to take it out… (looks like liqid metal paste) just dont get it on the tip of the spark plug if you do just wipe it off and redo it againNGK claims no anti-seize is needed. The type metal prevents these from seizing. That’s a great thing.
As far as the wire/cable > they’re either good or bad in these cars as far as I’m concerned because I can’t see how to separate the cable from the transistor.
Maybe I’ll check them when I re-seal valve cover.
[quote=”maxiitech” post=171610]I got NGK PFR5G-11 and feel good. 15xxxx miles never changed them once. This should be interesting.
Where do I apply the grease to?
The wire is buried in the rubber boot. How do I test the wire and what numbers/setting on multi-meter do I use? What figure am I looking for on the ohms?[/quote]
Your car uses coil-over-plug. You don’t have spark plug cables and therefore do not need to test them. The dielectric grease simply goes in the end of the boot that goes over the spark plug. It is optional, but recommended. A small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the spark plug will help preserve the threads on aluminum heads.
[quote=”maxiitech” post=171613]NGK claims no anti-seize is needed. The type metal prevents these from seizing. That’s the great thing about NGK!
As far as the wire/cable > they’re either good or bad in these cars as far as my position is on it. Hitachi…[/quote]
I would still add it… because you will get dirt in the thrids of the spark plug…
some ppl have had the spark plug stuck in and brake them when you take them out… wich turn in to a major job… the whole head will have to be taken out… wich is liek some shops charge like $1500 or so to do… like 2-13 hours of work
now what they are saying is that it will not rust inside by there coating… like crome or something like that…. but it will not provent dirt from getting in the threads of the spark plug… example oil leaks from your valve cover in to the shaft where the spark plug like 1-2 drops… it will slowly collect dirt from the air. and burn the oil… making a burned… slowly turning it into rock hard tar… that is an example of how it could happen over time…. now the anti seize will help by acting like a burryer trying to help proven the dirt from getting in and lubing the shaft up tooI read anti-seize lowers the torque value. The Motorcraft plugs look like steel and looks as though they could rust yeah I’d use anti seize on those but these plugs are some other type of metal Nissan isn’t recommending that.
NGK has the stem available but how do I separate the transistor from the boots? Do they pull apart or screw apart?
[quote=”cap269″ post=171615][quote=”maxiitech” post=171610]I got NGK PFR5G-11 and feel good. 15xxxx miles never changed them once. This should be interesting.
Where do I apply the grease to?
The wire is buried in the rubber boot. How do I test the wire and what numbers/setting on multi-meter do I use? What figure am I looking for on the ohms?[/quote]
Your car uses coil-over-plug. You don’t have spark plug cables and therefore do not need to test them. The dielectric grease simply goes in the end of the boot that goes over the spark plug. It is optional, but recommended. A small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the spark plug will help preserve the threads on aluminum heads.[/quote]
what the coil pack is drectly connected to the spark plug???
WTF??? I have never see that beforeIf one end of the plug wire is permanently bonded to the coil, you can’t really measure the resistance. If you have access to both ends of the wire, you simply set the multi meter to the Ohms setting, (touch the meter leads together and “zero” the needle on the scale, if necessary). Touch or clip one meter lead to the metal connector at one end of the plug wire, and touch/clip the other lead to the connector at the other end of the plug wire. In ballpark terms, the resistance reading should not exceed 10,000 Ohms per foot of wire.
I am going to differ with Rob and recommend against using a conventional anti seize compound on the plug threads. It can act as a thermal insulator and diminish the plugs’ abilities to shed heat, causing them to run hotter than they should, which could result in detonation, misfires and other ignition trouble. If you really want to diminish the chances of having the plugs seizing in their threads, wipe a thin coat of Milk of Magnesia on the plug threads before installing them. The liquid is quickly steamed off during operation, and leaves behind a thin powdery dry chalky coating which makes plug removal easier in the future.
Most plugs have their top terminal screwed on. It’s a good idea to make sure it’s screwed down snugly. Can’t tell you how many I’ve found loose right out of the box over the years.
[quote=”maxiitech” post=171617]I read anti-seize lowers the torque value. The Motorcraft plugs look like steel and looks as though they could rust yeah I’d use anti seize on those but these plugs are some other type of metal Nissan isn’t recommending that.
NGK has the stem available but how do I separate the transistor from the boots? Do they pull apart or screw apart?[/quote]
where did you hear that at… make no sence to me… anti seize would seal it up better and if there is slop in the threads would help not hurt the torque valueYeah there are stem with a small coils inside and boot that connects to the plug from the coil.
There’s no standard coil pack/module/plug wires set up on this one.
The Transistor has no resistance when it’s removed from the car. That means it’s a good coil pack.But the thing about it is when the plugs go bad in this car you get an emissions code. Most people/motorists/techs would assume you’d get a misfire.
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