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going to tackle a brake change on this 2001 Honda crv. I have a decent knowledge of changing brakes on a few different models. Is there any special tools that are needed to remove the brake caliper bracket? and any other knowledge from anyone who know this brake systems tricks and tips.
Thanks
larkinjm
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No special tools. here is some how to.
yeah if you know how to change brakes the CR-Vs brakes should be pretty simple. on some newer vehicles you really need a dealer level scan tool to properly bleed the brakes but on a vehicle that old I think you can get away with it.
on another note, I just got a 2014 CR-V last month, leasing it for now and may buy it off lease afterwards depending on how it holds up. they seem like pretty simple vehicles to work on, shouldn’t have any problem doing the brakes on that car. Stay dirty.
There are two screws in the rotor that were seized up and I could not remove. So I decided to try and find the exact replacement screws so I could drill them and easy out them. When I got to the auto store and started asking questions about those screws and getting replacements I was told that I coild just drill the heads off and sand the shanks down and leave it like that and just put the new rotor back on. well I did this and seems to be no problem as of yet. So what is it that those two screws are originally there to hold and should I expect any malfunction due to the shade tree mechanics I performed?
Those screws are pretty much there to keep the rotors on the car while it’s rolling down the assembly line. As long as you got the screw out, or at least what’s left flush to the hub, you shouldn’t have any problems. You should have cleaned off the hub surfaces as a whole to prevent creating a runout condition with the new rotors. That’s generally easier said than done. If you’re not feeling any pulsations or vibrations after the brake job though, the car should be fine.
[quote=”larkinjm” post=113791]There are two screws in the rotor that were seized up and I could not remove. So I decided to try and find the exact replacement screws so I could drill them and easy out them. When I got to the auto store and started asking questions about those screws and getting replacements I was told that I coild just drill the heads off and sand the shanks down and leave it like that and just put the new rotor back on. well I did this and seems to be no problem as of yet. So what is it that those two screws are originally there to hold and should I expect any malfunction due to the shade tree mechanics I performed?[/quote]
I would be wary of any advice from anybody to modify an item youvwwn,,expecially if it ciuld relatr to your personal safety.
It’s one thing to follow your yiur own ides and opinions. Somrthing else to give it to s0someone and walk away bearing no resposibility for the consequnces:.
You can probably do without those screws so long as you aren’t doing brake wotk. There is a slight chance that with the cliper off, the disc could move away from the hub face and become slightly askew. If the wheels were to be remounnted with the disc out if position, it could become wedged in that position as the lugnuts were tighteded, and possibly warp before you figured out what was wrong.
It’s a slight chance, but possible. The soultion is to learn a method of getting thise screws out, starting with usinf JIS #3 screwdrivers and bits, not phillips, with those screws.
The only one I wouldnt use is the ballpeen hammer technique, which can and has caused heads to shear off. A there’sca backstreet mechanic (ireland) youtube video using my fallback technique.
As for the screws they’re so cheap I’d just get them from the dealership.
I’m expecting them to be difficult so the last time I ordered parts I ordered eight of them. I won’t use all of them, may not end up using any of them actually but they were only like $.39 a piece I’d rather have them on hand than not.
I think they’re optional in that the lugnuts will provide enough clamping force to hold firm the wheel to rotor to hub.
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