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01-07 Gen Chrysler minivans with 3.3 & 3.8 engines

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Common Problems/Pattern Failures 01-07 Gen Chrysler minivans with 3.3 & 3.8 engines

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  • #628318
    none nonenone
    Participant

      Rack and pinion steering gears: On the rare occasions I met one that didn’t leak, it’s because the rack has already been replaced. They leak through the end seals of the rack and slowly fill up the bellows boots. Every now and then, you just won’t see the leak until you’re pulling the boots to replace inner tie rods.

      Power steering fluid reservoirs: There’s an ultra fine filter screen built into these reservoirs that eventually gets plugged up by contamination from normal wear. The most common symptom for a plugged reservoir is the van will start up nice and quiet and normal and within a minute or so, develop a power steering whine. The power steering pumps themselves are very reliable components so always try replacing the reservoir and fluid first before thinking about condemning the pump. I used to see this chronically in a taxi fleet, and while much less common in personal vehicles, it still shows up on occasion.

      Water pumps: They usually start leaking through their weep hole. Once in a great while, part of the impeller will break in the housing causing an overheat problem. The shrapnel that broke off the impeller tends to disappear somewhere into the engine. I’ve never had any problems with that shrapnel finding its way back into the pump housing to damage the new pump though.

      Transmission solenoid packs: There are too many weird transmission symptoms to tell you about here so I’ll simply say that many of them can be solved by replacing the solenoid pack. The one symptom you’ll probably see most often is “limp mode”. You get second gear and that’s it until the problem is solved. Do get it accurately diagnosed though. Failed input and output shaft sensors aren’t entirely uncommon and they can cause no shift and bang shift conditions.

      Auxiliary heater core lines: From 01 through about 05 of this generation, any van with secondary heat in the rear had steel lines from the factory to feed that rear heater core. They run across and then down the firewall and under the van on the passenger side. They’re very well exposed to the weather at the bottom and are very prone to rusting out. The replacement lines are always aluminum; both by dealer and aftermarket. It was either 06 or 07 when they finally started installing the aluminum lines from the factory. Those of you living in hot and dry climates probably won’t have a clue what I’m talking about here.

      Rear AC systems: Most of your AC leaks that I’ve seen in a front and rear AC system come from a leak between the H-block and the thermal expansion valve attached to the rear evaporator. You’ll generally wind up replacing both of them every time. The H-block is exposed to enough weather and dirt under the van that the studs holding the two pieces together break when you try to turn the nuts off. I’m sure this is one more instance where you kids in Arizona are pretty sure I don’t know what I’m talking about. You might be on to something there, but we’d have to discuss some other subject matter first.

      Fuel injector wiring harness: Early on in this generation, the harness sat too close to an exhaust pipe and it got all kinds of burnt and melted. Even later on in the generation after some revisions, I’ve still seen wires starting to melt and fuse together in those harnesses. If new plugs & wires didn’t solve your P030X codes, that harness might be a good place to look next.

      Cracked flywheels: Almost forgot this one. A cracked flywheel can get you odd knocking/rapping noise and power loss problems. The crack goes all the way around the mounting bolts and then the flywheel can shift and get itself wedged a few degrees from where it should be. With starting and stopping the engine, the flywheel can shift and wedge itself back to where it started letting the van run fairly normal again.

      Power sliding door failures: There’s a plastic chain that houses the wiring harness for the power door option. The wiring typically breaks at the rear end of that chain from everyday use. I recommend getting the OE harness. I recall aftermarket chains having fitment problems that could ultimately lead to the harness just pulling itself apart.

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    • #630375
      BillBill
      Participant

        no_common_sense , You are right on the money with pattern failures on those vans. I own a 2007 and have replaced the P.S. reservoir although just as maintenance. Have replaced the torque converter and reflash for a shudder problem but still have the famous bump shift on coast down that drives me looney. Neither of my power sliding doors work and would rather have it that way. (damn plastic junk)

        We just had a Caravan in the shop with a refrigerant leak at the rear H block and the tech couldn’t stop the leak with a new valve and O rings and had to replace the evaporator as well.

        I have changed several solenoid packs for leaks and pissy water pumps also not to mention several broken flex plates.

        You forgot to mention sway bar links and bushings for clunks and rattles. 🙂

        Once you have those things covered the rust begins to show up.

        Other than those pattern failures they are great vans.

        #630565
        none nonenone
        Participant

          I decided not to list the sway bar links/bushings, nor the noisy strut caps because suspension/steering parts in general are pattern failure parts. They take all the road abuse and they’re going to die no matter what. On top of that, once I stopped being a fleet mechanic and started being a service mechanic, I almost never get complaints for the sway bar stuff. (Same thing with engine mounts. Taxi purpose Caravans ate up engine mounts. I haven’t been able to sell a single mount yet.) It’s kind of ironic to me that I can say the Caravan ball joints are really strong considering so many other Chrysler vehicles have such lousy steering and suspension parts that are trash in 30K. I’ll steal oil changes from lube techs just so I can try and sell control arms, ball joints, and tie rods on anything mopar.

          #632808
          Brandon DriskillBrandon Driskill
          Participant

            Two more common failures on these vans are the electronic egr valves and cracked fuel pumps. When I went to the dealer to get a replacement EGR valve, the counter guy said they sell a bunch of them and had 50+ in stock. For the fuel pump issue, there are pictures here: http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/327871-hair-line-cracks-in-fuel-pump-leaks-thru-cracks-housing.html
            I had a fuel leak from the top of my gas tank, and lo and behold my fuel pump looked just like that one.

            #658614
            Doug BeardDoug Beard
            Participant

              One more thing I’ve replaced on half a dozen of these vans is the metal pipe that extends from the bottom of the water pump to the lower radiator hose. It corrodes and starts to leak if you live anywhere near where they salt the roads in winter. It hides because the coolant just pools in the plastic splash guard that covers the crank pulley and accessories. Usually the radiator goes at about the same time, but My roommate who lives near Rochester NY went through three of them before we replaced the radiator.

              The valley pan gasket also goes regardless of what you do. Most people opt not to fix it because it usually only leaks a tiny bit, or it pools on top of the gasket itself and just makes the car smelly after you get out and walk past the hood.

              Its been a pretty good car for what it is. Ours was a rental fleet vehicle before we bought it, and Im VERY surprised at how well it has done for us.

              #658624
              Andrew ButtonAndrew Button
              Participant

                I have decided to purchase one to tackle the Rubicon trail in the Sierra Nevadas. Should I do any upgrades ?

                #659903
                ed ked k
                Participant

                  one other common issue with these vans is a leak in the passenger footwell from the A/C system vent tube getting clogged

                  I’ve tried to fix it on my mom’s 03 town & country but to no avail

                  #659905
                  BillBill
                  Participant

                    You need to make sure the tube is sealed to the firewall. There is supposed to be an O ring there but it doesn’t work. I just load em up good with silicone and it seems to work. My own 07 caravan was getting a wet carpet and it turned out to be the windshield leaking. I repaired that with liquid silicone.

                    I keep everything painted under the engine to stop the rusties and yes my intake manifold is starting to leak coolant. Just replaced the sway bar links and bushings again. Not even a year old. {:-(

                    #659917
                    none nonenone
                    Participant

                      [quote=”wysetech” post=132707]Just replaced the sway bar links and bushings again. Not even a year old. {:-([/quote]

                      If you’ve been using any sort of a poly bushing, you might to just go back to a plain rubber bushing. Every poly-whatever bushing I’ve ever thrown into a car has always mushroomed out the holes in short order like that. What kind of end links have you been using?

                      #660128
                      BillBill
                      Participant

                        The links were aftermarket and the bushings were Chrysler with the nylon insert.

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