Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 00 Ford Windstar running lean
- This topic has 27 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 12 years ago by
Noneotherbadboy.
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- December 15, 2012 at 3:50 am #484675
I have a 2000 ford windstar I have recently fixed a misfire and a battery drain but now I have a issue that has been bugging me now ever since I bought the van. The van has the codes p0171 system too lean bank 1 and p0174 system to lean bank 2 and I cant seem to figure it out. I have changed all the fuel injectors and the intake manifold gaskets and checked for vacuum leaks like in the video eric showed and cant find nothing. Its been like this for about 5 years I heard this is a common problem with the 99-00 ford windstars.
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- January 10, 2013 at 5:39 am #490256
That might be an idle air control valve issue but it’s hard to say. As for checking for exhaust leaks this video might help.
Keep us posted.
January 13, 2013 at 6:10 am #491203I had recently cleaned the idle air control valve and today I decide to try and test one of the oxygen sensors with a multimeter but I only got as far as disconnecting it then I had to plug it back in and as soon as I did that every time I start the van it starts to run rough and I have to rev the engine and wait about 3 mins till it stops that then I can drive it and it acts normal from there till I turn it off and then it starts doing that again so I’m lost now
January 14, 2013 at 8:52 am #491546Have the same vehicle and had many problems,just keep saying its only a machine.
Easy check is is the intake manifold runner control,two arms in intake open and close when rpms increase or decrease…see if those two arms are connected with there plastic bushings…if there open it will bring too much air in and show lean codes on both banks.
Also after removing air intake filter housing,there is a fresh air plastic pipe on back that becomes loose or gets forgotten and left off.
January 17, 2013 at 4:55 am #492466I forgot about the multistage intake. This could also be an issue if it’s not operating properly. I think you can check it with a vacuum pump. See if it holds vacuum. If not, it may be the servo.
January 17, 2013 at 5:27 am #492486On these multi-stage air intake manifold runner controls for this year of model is run by electric motor from a signal from the pcm. A not very common problem is air getting around the shaft on the outside of the intake manifold that opens the secondary intakes.Also these models have a major problem with oil getting sucked up into the upper plenuim from the pcv valve and puddling till full and cake on these secondary intake valves resulting in sticking and breaking the plastic retainer clips on the arms going to the intake manifold runner control.On my vehicle excessive blow by was solved with a oil catch can,it takes only 1000 miles and the 22oz catch can is 3/4 full of oil.
January 19, 2013 at 4:46 am #492955Thanks for all the help. I did actually fix the imrc on my van when I did the tsb for the intake i have to get one arm cause one of mine was missing and i had to use a metal washer like thing with teeth because the ford dealer wanted to much money for the plastic bushings but I was wondering with imrc and the engine off what are they supposed to be open or closed. I think I have fixed my problem with the idle and check engine light I disconnected the oxygen sensor a couple of times and plugged it back in and cleared the codes and the check engine light did not come back on so far. It would usually take only about a day or two and then it would come back on but its been a week now and nothing so far nothing it seems fixed. When i did the tsb they told me the new valve cover i got would fix the problem of oil being sucked through the pcv valve but i still want to get a catch can to see if the valve cover helped can i build one or do i need to buy one.
January 19, 2013 at 8:24 am #492988The imrc should be closed or should i say the handle should be on the bump stop,kinda like a metal bumper.
Also dorman sells the retainer clips at advance auto stores and a few others,also online…ebay.
They run 6 bucks for five plastic retainers…..beats paying 10 bucks each for them at the dealership.
Word of wisdom….change all of them at once cause if you lose a metal arm they are very hard to come by.Mine was missing on one side and was told they are a complete part of the intake manifold.Found mine from a later year with a whole complete imrc for 110 bucks online ebay.
Also there is a test for the imrc to show the imrc open and close with key on engine off,check online for the procedure.
Also the new valve cover is better for oil getting sucked up but 3.8 all have bad blow by.You will be amazed at how much it will catch……just check it often.I will post a pic of what 800 miles caught in mine.Keep us posted and maybe a pic of the catch can if you decide to install.
January 24, 2013 at 12:41 am #494009How do you build a catch can for the pcv or do i need to buy the catch can.
January 24, 2013 at 8:56 am #494126Well in own opinion making your own catch can will be troublesome…here is a few reasons,it has to be air tight,easy to drain,able to take abuse(heat and vibration).
For around 20 to 30 bucks for a cheap one online(ebay) you can get one and modify it for the long haul.The really good ones online are 150 to 275 bucks….yeah ouch.
I had to treat mine with teflon tape at all fitting for vacuum tight test cause it was very cheap at 30 bucks.It also came with hose and brackets for installation.January 30, 2013 at 2:48 am #495635Thanks very much for the input on this one dirtywaters1978. I’m learning many things.
Keep us posted on your progress Nonotherbadboy.
January 30, 2013 at 7:00 am #495730I wish my wife ran lean.. :dry:
January 31, 2013 at 3:29 am #496024I think i will install one i seen a video on youtube on building one with a pickle jar and air line fittings. I will keep you posted on how the build goes.
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