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*Hope Mr. EricTheCarGuy can also participate and comment on my problem :woohoo:
I drive a 2005 Toyota Fortuner D4D 3.0L Diesel- Automatic
Here comes my problem, for 3 years now, almost every time my car starts, and as I start accelerating or letting the brakes go(automatic transmission), the point I reach 5 km/hour, a weird clunking noise for about 1-2seconds(that sounds like a gear which rotates very fast, sometimes sounds like ABS engaging). The noise comes from drivers side and sort of below the brakes(ABS is located in front of drivers side)
This happens only when:
a. A hard right or hard left has been made before reaching the 5 km/hour
b. It happens when I newly started the car and when it reaches 5km/hour, after it clunks, there is no more noise, I can go as much as 100km or unlimited mileage.It does not happen when I move straight.
I did my assignment, I researched, joined a lot of forum but did not get any experienced people answer my problem, studied a lot, and found out that once a car has been started, it’s ABS should engage “ONCE” when it reached 5-10 km/hour or so, and it coincides with my problem.
It could be related to ABS, I did cleaned all my ABS sensors already and no luck 🙁 That’s why I beg to ask if you have any experience with this problem and share any tips or so.
Hoping hoping you can enlighten me or bring me any tips to solve my problem.
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Replies
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No check engine light? see if this link helps.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
Hi. there is no check engine light.
Thanks for the link, but already saw the videos. No luck…
Noise clunks when reaching 5-10km/hr and happens only once every startup.
Coincides with ABS engaging once every startup.
When I go straight from startup, I hear a very little engaging sound in ABS.
When a need to have a medium to heavy right or left turn before ABS engages, there goes the noise exactly when ABS engages. I assume.
ABS does NOT engage at low speeds.
The hidden gremlin of ABS – what they don’t advertise.
If you look at the statistics for crashes, a large percentage of them are “fender benders” – low-speed impacts that only do a little damage and so slow that the vehicle occupants are in no danger; normally about 10mph. I’ll give you one guess what the typical “minimum activation speed” is for ABS. That’s right. On a lot of vehicles, the ABS is useless much below about 10mph. Seriously. Try it yourself. Find an empty road on a slight downhill grade – even better if its on a dewy morning. Run your ABS-equipped car up to about 10mph and jam on the brakes as hard as you can. The car will skid to a stop and the ABS system will remain totally silent.
Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible_pg2.html#ixzz3JZgNe8sS
Because you mentioned TURNS during clunking, my bet is on CV joints.
Have you ruled out wheel bearings and cv joints? Also have you checked your axle nuts are torqued properly. Check your sway bar mounts. Not the sway bar links but, the actual mounts. I would also check your engine and/or transmission mounts.
All of those things would cause the sound you are talking about. I am relatively certain it is not your abs though as if it was going off you would definitely know. Also wheel speed sensors start reading at 5-10mph but, under 15mph the abs and traction control do not activate in every system I have ever seen.
My guess is that the ABS does a self test on start up and that is what you are hearing.
Does the ABS work properly otherwise? If so, and since you have been hearing this with no problem other than your curiosity being peaked for three years, I think you are trying to fix what isn’t broken.
My guess is also the same as yours, ABS does a self test on startup.
Yes, the ABS works fine, but again, for my peace of mind, I would really want to know also what causes it.
I have attached an image of different case scenarios when ABS do self test on startup when reaching 10kph.
It happens ONCE every startup.. Have no idea why the ABS keeps doing that, or maybe it is not the ABS that is making noise…
And the pulsating noise, concides with my brakes pulsating as well, so I am pretty sure,my guess of ABS giving noise is around 95%..
[url=http://postimg.org/image/ewv9e99hl/]
I have ruled out wheel bearings and CV joints.
Have experienced Wheel bearings and CV joint problems, they usually do noises on EVERY tire rotation.
Noted on checking axle nuts and other mounts.
Attached
I have attached an image of different case scenarios when ABS do self test on startup when reaching 10kph.
t happens ONCE every startup.. Have no idea why the ABS keeps doing that, or maybe it is not the ABS that is making noise…
And the pulsating noise, concides with my brakes pulsating as well, so I am pretty sure,my guess of ABS giving noise is around 95%..
[url=http://postimg.org/image/ewv9e99hl/]
If you feel the pedal pulsate and you are dead set on it being the abs and you are not going to give up on finding it. Here is what you can do:
1. Use http://www.decodethis.com/ to make sure you don’t have a weird half year such as 2005.5
2. Check all Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)s on the make/model/year car you have.
3. Check all Recalls
4. Check your battery voltage see http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems?start=2#ChecktheBattery
5. Check Relays and Fuses. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems?start=2#ChecktheFusesIf none of the above helps and you really want to test the abs for issues. There are 2 main things that effect abs systems acting weird and that is dirty brake fluid and faulty wheel speed sensors. After that it is wiring and then the modules. If you haven’t replaced the brake fluid at the proper interval start there.
To check the wheel speed sensors you are going to need dielectric grease and a garden hose and spikit. Hook up the hose and completely drench the wires behind each wheel. Take if for a spin see if it acts up more. If so then wait for it to dry and try each wheel individually letting each dry in between. If that doesn’t work. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor at the connector near the wheel. Look at the male and female pins on either side are they shiny and do they have any kind of grease in them. If the answer is yes to both. Get something metal the same width or smaller but the same thickness as the male pins. Micro/Eyeglass screwdrivers work great for this. Then insert it gently into the female side. Does it have drag when you pull it out. If yes good. If no there is one problem that needs to be addressed. Next look at the back sides of each plug. Does it look like the wires are crushed/cut/bent. Next we take a piece of paper and a needle and prick your finger and sign in blood oops wrong thing. Take a piece of paper, pencil or pen, and your Ohm-Meter. Measure the resistance of the pins on the wire going to the wheel speed sensor. Write it down. Now while you are ohming it wiggle the wire around start at one end and work your way up. If it suddenly drops out and you are sure the leads didn’t slip you need a new wheel speed sensor wire which normally means a new sensor. Do this with all 4 wheels if you have sensors on all 4 wheels. Then if you still haven’t found it compare the ohm readings is one of them off by a great marjin replace it. If you are not sure post what you get in here and we can look at it. If all that is fine move to fluid.
To check the fluid take a brand new clean paper towel and dip it into your fluid. Now be careful when you pull it out it will eat any paint u get the fluid on. There are 2 things you want to look for any debri floating around in it or sticking to the towel when you remove it. Then wipe out the top of the cap and see if the rubber has deteriorated at all or has signs of excessive wear. If you have had the car for a while check the manual and see what the interval is for changing the brake fluid. If its past its life expectancy it needs to be changed. If you do this I recommend vacuum bleeding it and actuating the abs module at the same ie dealership. Though you might be able to get away with using a mightyvac (Cheapest Price I HF unless on sale) Pull as close to 30in of vacumn you can and flush the entire system. When you do this look at the flexible hoses at the wheels if you see one collapse and the rest do not at that vacuum you have found an issue. If you do not do it under vacuum you are likely to not pull the new fluid past the seals in the abs controller.
If none of that fixes it, it is going to have to be done by someone familiar with that brand or you need to get the factory diagnostic information for the entire abs system once again if you are positive that is it.
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