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READ THIS FIRST BEFORE POSTING ABOUT HONDA IDLE ISSUES!!
By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle. First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.
The Bleeding a Cooling System Video
The video response to the Honda Idle video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMjQry8mz-E&feature=watch_response
Lastly here is the “Idle Speech”
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.
First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.
Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.
Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.
While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.
DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.
Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.
If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.
I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.
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This is such a common problem that I”m glad you made the topic a sticky.
I didn’t recognize the third video, you called it the “Idle speech”. Evidently it’s a private Youtube video, not for public eyes. You might want to edit that video off, or offer a link that allows public users to see it.
[quote=”spelunkerd” post=42845]This is such a common problem that I”m glad you made the topic a sticky.
I didn’t recognize the third video, you called it the “Idle speech”. Evidently it’s a private Youtube video, not for public eyes. You might want to edit that video off, or offer a link that allows public users to see it.[/quote]
That must have changed recently because it used to work. Thanks for the heads up.
It’s not my video. I guess the poster decided to make it private so that it could no longer be viewed. It’s a shame because it was a good video and talked quite a bit about the FITV and why it failed and the importance of getting the adjustment correct.
Changed the AICV, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, new NGK wires and NGK iridium plugs, and bled the coolant system. I also checked for vaccum leaks and did not find any. The Idle is doing what it is supposed to do on cold start, but when engine reaches operating temp idle flux’s up and down over and over and when accelerating i get what feels like and occasional misfire (jerk). I am not sure what else to check. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks.
Also there is no MAF sensor on this vehicle.Any more advice for this issue (read previous post) as soon as possible please?? Thanks!
[quote=”mbaldwin13″ post=46238]Also there is no MAF sensor on this vehicle.Any more advice for this issue (read previous post) as soon as possible please?? Thanks![/quote]
OK, this is not the place to post your question. It would be better if you would start a new thread for your issue as it’s only dumb luck that I saw your post. Please post it there and we’ll give answers. Thanks.
2 of the 3 were working, but the 3rd was blocked.The problem i had was a bad fasr idle control valve.
Thank you for the great information how to repair this Eric.
I was in performancing tunning back in 1994, mainly with Honda/Acura.
One of the area got me looking into was the fuel, what trigger me to look into that was, at time, i found my at the time, a few Integra from GSR to 4 doors to Type R, i found them run very lazy and idle very rough at time.
It hits me when i got a project in Vermont, while gas was at 79 to 99 cents per gallon, i found my Integra ran very peppy and always want to rev, laziness gone completely, i actually get extra mileage per tank vs when i travel back to Canada.I kept on digging into this for years, till this year, when i got introduced to a product that blew my mind away, all these years, my questions beeen answered, so i decided to call Shell and find out what is going on, sure enough it was the fuel.
I then went to interview one of the top tech who works closely with Honda techline, very knowledgeble tech.
Make total sense that all carbon-based chain fuel either 87 octane to 91 octane, and diesel required 600°C to burn, in order to completely burn, it needs to reach 1200°C for complete burn. It explains why we have partial burn fuel as carbon deposit clogging up Oxygen Sensor, EVAP system, Valves, etc.
More important in my Integra days, i remember removing the screw at the throatle body to clean the carbon built up to get the engine run smoother.Till Mid Feb of this year, my friend introduced me to this tab that litteraly solve all the issue, 3 months in, all the cars now idle sooooo smooth like it was new, rev much easier, the cars/vans felt so much lighter, engine ran way cooler, which i found it can ignite and burn at closer to 200°C as supposed to 600°C.
Our 2006 Acura TSX runs better using 87 octane gas, and i had people drive BMW Z4, BMW M5, Porsche Caynne, Benz GL350 Diesel etc came back told me amazing stories. We all got varies of mileage increased by 20 to upward 50%.[quote=”TranTek5″ post=107439]Thank you for the great information how to repair this Eric.
I was in performancing tunning back in 1994, mainly with Honda/Acura.
One of the area got me looking into was the fuel, what trigger me to look into that was, at time, i found my at the time, a few Integra from GSR to 4 doors to Type R, i found them run very lazy and idle very rough at time.
It hits me when i got a project in Vermont, while gas was at 79 to 99 cents per gallon, i found my Integra ran very peppy and always want to rev, laziness gone completely, i actually get extra mileage per tank vs when i travel back to Canada.I kept on digging into this for years, till this year, when i got introduced to a product that blew my mind away, all these years, my questions beeen answered, so i decided to call Shell and find out what is going on, sure enough it was the fuel.
I then went to interview one of the top tech who works closely with Honda techline, very knowledgeble tech.
Make total sense that all carbon-based chain fuel either 87 octane to 91 octane, and diesel required 600°C to burn, in order to completely burn, it needs to reach 1200°C for complete burn. It explains why we have partial burn fuel as carbon deposit clogging up Oxygen Sensor, EVAP system, Valves, etc.
More important in my Integra days, i remember removing the screw at the throatle body to clean the carbon built up to get the engine run smoother.Till Mid Feb of this year, my friend introduced me to this tab that litteraly solve all the issue, 3 months in, all the cars now idle sooooo smooth like it was new, rev much easier, the cars/vans felt so much lighter, engine ran way cooler, which i found it can ignite and burn at closer to 200°C as supposed to 600°C.
Our 2006 Acura TSX runs better using 87 octane gas, and i had people drive BMW Z4, BMW M5, Porsche Caynne, Benz GL350 Diesel etc came back told me amazing stories. We all got varies of mileage increased by 20 to upward 50%.[/quote]So in essence are you saying that combustion chamber temp has a lot to do with a rough idle? And that switching to a lower octane fuel helped the issue?
i’m using block b20b from CRV and b16a head for about a year now. about 2 months ago and the idle is up and down and CEL with code 14 (IACV).I already change twice the IACV and FITV and the result still the same. I also did coolant bleeding and vaccum check, there is no leak.I just try borrow from my friend car that working properly but the result is still the same. Idle up and down and the CEL appear after engine running 5-10 seconds. I think after this i’m gonna try my friend ECU that same with me (P30). Need some advise here….. please
[quote=”ZAFFRANO” post=107697]i’m using block b20b from CRV and b16a head for about a year now. about 2 months ago and the idle is up and down and CEL with code 14 (IACV).I already change twice the IACV and FITV and the result still the same. I also did coolant bleeding and vaccum check, there is no leak.I just try borrow from my friend car that working properly but the result is still the same. Idle up and down and the CEL appear after engine running 5-10 seconds. I think after this i’m gonna try my friend ECU that same with me (P30). Need some advise here….. please[/quote]
You might want to start your own thread for this as this post was originally meant to be an FYI, not a place to post issues. You also might want to read through this.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
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