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Eric Wrote:
“I get asked about oil questions a LOT. For that reason I’ve asked my friends at Valvoline to help me answer some of them. This way we can get an ‘expert’ to weigh in on some of the most popular questions about oil. We’re scheduling a video shoot where we will answer questions submitted by you. Those questions will be taken from this forum thread. So post whatever questions you might have about oil, oil additives, oil viscosities, and generally whatever you feel you need to know about oil, and your question may be answered by the expert in the upcoming video.”
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Advance Auto sells an “Import” formula ATF (labeled 100% synthetic) and I was wondering how it differs from MaxLife?
I run a GM 4L60E and a Mercedes 722.3 in an old diesel car. Both spec for Dextron IIAny suggestion on which ATF fluid is best suited for the Mercedes AT & the GM 4L60E?
When should you start running a high mileage oil? Seems like different oil manufacturers have differing opinions. And then when you do, should you run full synthetic, blended synthetic, conventional, etc?
Is it true that for most cars, a synthetic less viscous oil that is liquid at the temperature you start the car at, is the best oil? Does this naturally make 5w20 the best oil?
Another question, I have heard that mobil 1 oil filters are the best, does valvoline ever do benchmarking tests on various oil filters? and if so can you share the results. thanks
The 3,000 mile oil change – a real waste or not? I’ve changed oil for many years at 3,000 miles. On any of my cars that run conventional oil, I still do. On those that run synthetic I go 4,000. My 09 Civic (80,000 miles)uses 5w-20 conventional. And I always use Valvoline. New the oil is light amber. By 3,000 miles the oil is dark (almost black) but still normal viscosity. Isn’t the black the carbon and other stuff from the engine that you really want out of the engine? If the oil was still fresh, would it not still be amber? On my newer Camry, I use synthetic oil. It is darker than new oil at 4,000 miles but not as black. Owner’s manuals tell me I can go much longer between oil changes, but I remember heading a Hayes service manual that said that is ok, but if you are doing it yourself, then the recommend more often because it’s cheap insurance. And yes, I recycle all old oil. So is it really a waste to change oil more often?
Do I really need high mileage oil? I have 6 cars and the high mileage oil is very expensive. I am thinking about going back to regular oil to save money. I change all cars around 3000 mile, so I am not sure I am gaining anything.
[quote=”asetoftools” post=96116]
Another question, I have heard that mobil 1 oil filters are the best, does valvoline ever do benchmarking tests on various oil filters? and if so can you share the results. thanks[/quote]While neither here nor now, if you have a Hyundai, I have found their new filters to be better made than any I have ever used!
Some have said that even conventional oil will last far longer than 3,000 miles before sludging (except in Chryslers). As a result they were changing the filter every 3,000 miles and the oil ever 6,000 and just topping off the oil when necessary. This strikes me as a bad idea (but I also use synthetic and change 9,000 to 10,000 miles or once a year).
Is there a quick at home test possible to check the remaining lifetime of the oil that Valvoline has developed or worked on that could check surfactants and other additives?
Why are auto manufacturers (like Honda) moving towards only using 0W20 oil in their vehicles? Is it better for the engines?
Hi I am a rookie in the automotive field and one of my team mates at the shop I work at for light service/repair told me to put high millage oil in my Subaru since it’s got 192k on the clock. It has or had at least one oil leak that I believe I have fixed (valve cover gaskets just got replaced) and from personal experience I don’t want to put synthetic in to his engine until all the seals and gaskets have been replaced. What does high mileage oil really do in my engine? To my knowledge the engine has run conventional oil all of it’s life. I stick with 5w30 since that’s what the manufacture calls for. Also the whole weight/viscosity is still a bit confusing to me. I hear that the “W” is “WINTER” or others say it’s “WEIGHT” like if it’s for winter it keeps the viscosity of 30 in 5 below temps. It’s just really confusing to my brain. Sorry if this post is a bit long.
Another question:
Is it good to stick with one brand always, or better/worse/indifferent to change oil brands on occasion for a different package of additives every now and then? Would the same answer apply to “conventional” vs “synthetic” as well?
I changed my oil in my motorcycle in 2011 and rode it about 600 miles in 12 and 400 in 13 for a total of about 1000 miles. Should I change the oil? What about the filter? When it is parked for the winter it is in a heated garage.
It’s a Honda Valkyrie, Flat 6 cylinder (boxer) and holds 4 quarts.Is there really a shelf life on motor oil? I have some oil that has been in the original bottles inside the cardboard case and kept in a heated garage for probably 8 years. Everywhere I read says 5 years. Should it be recycled?
Is it true that you can make multiweight synthetic oil without using viscosity indexers? And if true is any such product marketed for automotive engines.
Here’s an update for those of you following this thread. I have a shoot date for the video now, June 16, 2014. So be sure to get your questions posted before then. Once I have the video edited I’ll make an announcement here when it will be coming out.
Thanks to everyone who’s posted questions so far!
Valvoline gurus:
1) We often see oil values written as 5w30, or 10w30. It was once explained to me that these are viscosity values (units unknown) for 0°C and 100°C (freezing and boiling points of water). Is this accurate?
2) Which matters more? ‘Honey’ coloured oil, or viscosity breakdown? I ask because I’ve changed oil and it still looks pristine, like honey. Other times, the oil is black after 3000m/5000km, and I feel I should be changing it sooner. (Different cars)
Is there a hard and fast rule here? I know the black in oil is generally attributed to carbon deposit/washing, and should be changed. If after 3000 miles, the oil still appears golden, is it safe to squeeze another 1000mi out of it? Or is there degradation we can’t see that should be considered?
Thank you!!
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