How To Remove Honda Crank Bolts

[EricTheCarGuy]

Here is the first “Random Tuesday” video. Basically, every now and again on Tuesdays I intend to put out short videos like this. I’m still going to be posting regular repair videos on Fridays. These are just a bonus.

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[Fernando cunha]

Is good when people have the luxury of having right tools.
Try use that on different model car?
Some will prob work but not all.
Great video and thank you

[Christopher]

That’s fine and dandy for Hondas with the hex fitting on the pulley. But why didn’t you show how to do the crowbar/flywheel trick?

I had a 93 civic with no hex fitting. On top of that, the bolt was on STUPID tight. Impact wouldn’t take it off. Nothing I did could hold the crankshaft still. I gave up on it for a year until I had the idea to take it to a local shop that put it on a lift and jammed the flywheel with a crowbar. The mechanic at the shop broke one of his sockets on the bolt and still didn’t get it loose. Then he used an impact socket with a cheater and finally broke it loose. THAT was a lesson on how to remove Honda crank bolts.

[Jared]

I have the version that you use with a breaker bar, which works great, but my favorite way now is using a MAC L77080 harmonic balancer socket (at least I think that is still the part number), two guys in the shop have the Blue Point version, which works well, although they seem to be made of softer metal, one guy has had three break and the other guys is pretty tore up looking, the other three of us use the MAC tools version, I can have my Impact on lower power and it still breaks the crank bolts loose, a newer Tech has a lower end (and lower power) IR impact gun that has no problem getting those loose with the MAC socket.
I remember before we had the nice sockets, on one Odyssey we broke 3 1/2 breaker bars trying to get one loose. Never understood how those things get so tight.

[Paul]

Thanks for the video.

I have a 91 Civic with 73,700 Km. The Honda crank tool was not invented back then. I will be doing the timing belt change soon. Lol as I said that 2-3 years ago while it had 62,000 Km. It was the Honda crank bolt on the old Civic holding me back.

I have an impact wrench rated 90 psi 500 ft-lb and my 20 gallon compressor can go to 125psi. Is it okay to use 125psi on my 90psi impact wrench to get more torque out from it?

Edit: Recently, I upgraded my 1/4″ ID air hose to a 3/8″ ID air hose. I hope the new air hose will deliver more pressure to my impact.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”c918″ post=159354]That’s fine and dandy for Hondas with the hex fitting on the pulley. But why didn’t you show how to do the crowbar/flywheel trick?

I had a 93 civic with no hex fitting. On top of that, the bolt was on STUPID tight. Impact wouldn’t take it off. Nothing I did could hold the crankshaft still. I gave up on it for a year until I had the idea to take it to a local shop that put it on a lift and jammed the flywheel with a crowbar. The mechanic at the shop broke one of his sockets on the bolt and still didn’t get it loose. Then he used an impact socket with a cheater and finally broke it loose. THAT was a lesson on how to remove Honda crank bolts.[/quote]

Honestly I was hoping the impact wouldn’t take it off so I could use the tool and a breaker bar. They actually make a flywheel holder tool that is much easier to use than the pry bar.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”TechGuy8″ post=159411]Thanks for the video.

I have a 91 Civic with 73,700 Km. The Honda crank tool was not invented back then. I will be doing the timing belt change soon. Lol as I said that 2-3 years ago while it had 62,000 Km. It was the Honda crank bolt on the old Civic holding me back.

I have an impact wrench rated 90 psi 500 ft-lb and my 20 gallon compressor can go to 125psi. Is it okay to use 125psi on my 90psi impact wrench to get more torque out from it?

Edit: Recently, I upgraded my 1/4″ ID air hose to a 3/8″ ID air hose. I hope the new air hose will deliver more pressure to my impact.[/quote]

Civics usually aren’t that bad, it’s the Accords you have to watch out for. Good luck.

[Landon Cook]

Working on a 2001 civic 1.7l… Had to borrow the tool for the crank bolt, but then I saw your video after I was done… Did you read my friggin mind or something??? 😆

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”MECHANIKMUNKY” post=159499]Working on a 2001 civic 1.7l… Had to borrow the tool for the crank bolt, but then I saw your video after I was done… Did you read my friggin mind or something??? :lol:[/quote]

I watch you when you sleep. You snore a little.

[Timothy Steadham]

I have a 2008 Odyssey that I am going to be doing a timing belt change in a couple of weeks. I have the service manual and a 650 ft-lb Husky impact wrench with adequate air. My concern is that the official Honda manual states to NOT use an impact when removing the crankshaft bolt. Do you know why? Help!

[EricTheCarGuy]

They make a special tool for breaking them loose, but in my experience I’ve never had any issues using an impact. Good luck.

[David]

Have you ever tried using the starter to remove the bolt? When I was doing my second timing belt on our Odyssey (at 210k miles) I was remembering the fun I had with 2 breaker bars and the crank pulley holder the first time around, and figured I’d give the starter bump method a try. I pulled the fuel pump relay and removed the spark plugs (the latter I do because it’s a whole lot easier to turn the engine by hand when lining things up when the plugs are out and the cylinders can’t build pressure) put a breaker bar with an impact socket on the bolt, wedged it appropriately (the engine in the Odyssey goes clockwise – it’s pretty important to know which way your engine goes for when you brace the bar – you want to double check that) then just bump the starter (using the key in the ignition) – bolt came loose immediately, no drama at all – I removed it the rest of the way by hand then got to taking everything else apart.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I don’t recommend that method of breaking crank bolts loose. You can easily break something with that method.

[David]

I don’t know – the same can be said for many things if not done carefully. If you pull the fuel pump relay, pull the plugs, brace the tools properly, then quickly bump the starter (that’s a pretty key point – you just bump it – don’t hold the key in start like you are trying to start the car) things come right apart. Arguably with less risk of damaging crank bearings, etc. via an impact… I definitely agree that if you don’t brace the tools properly, guess the rotation of the engine wrong, etc. it can get pretty exciting, though!

[EricTheCarGuy]

I’ve broken crank bolts loose with impacts for more than 20 years now without any bearing issues. Conversely, I’ve seen guys try the method you’re talking about, and they broke several things under the hood with their attempts, not to mention the tools they’ve broken as well.

To each their own.

[John Kirkham]

As I intend to do a timing belt renewal on my 98 integra Type R 118,000 miles and renew the water pump at the same time this subject is of great interest to me after searching the webb for advise I have found videos of people struggling with 10ft long scaffold bars trying to break the lock on these bolts and others that seem to just fly past this part without a mention to the difficulty there can some times be.I have seen the use of specially weighted sockets that multiply the action of the impact guns and make the job much easier.I have a pulley locking tool that a friend that had the same car once gave me and he said the hardest part of the whole job was undoing that bolt.I do not have an impact gun at the moment but am seriously considering getting one,what is your take on electric over air on these and would a small DIY air compressor with small tank and 118 psi max operate one of these guns
thanks in antisipation Tegranut

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