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I can really tell you is that I am envious. I wish I had a brake lathe. I have six rotors sitting in my garage that I could probably have machined but I don’t have a lathe and I am too lazy to take them to a machine shop. As I think you discussed in another video, almost nobody really machines rotors anymore for various reasons. Rotors are cheaper now, and it costs more to machine because of labor. I don’t think this has much to do with it, but my father says that rotors and drums are made from junk metal now and so they warp faster and that they are “just junk.” I’m not sure if that’s true, but it sure seems to me like most rotors warp pretty quick nowadays. I had old rotors on my 81′ El Camino and they never warped. I put newer drilled and slotted rotors on the front and they are just beginning to warp. Maybe he has a point, maybe not. All I know is I wish I had a brake lathe. Keep lovin that shop, Eric. You can do just about anything with it.
Nick
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149332]I can really tell you is that I am envious. I wish I had a brake lathe. I have six rotors sitting in my garage that I could probably have machined but I don’t have a lathe and I am too lazy to take them to a machine shop. As I think you discussed in another video, almost nobody really machines rotors anymore for various reasons. Rotors are cheaper now, and it costs more to machine because of labor. I don’t think this has much to do with it, but my father says that rotors and drums are made from junk metal now and so they warp faster and that they are “just junk.” I’m not sure if that’s true, but it sure seems to me like most rotors warp pretty quick nowadays. I had old rotors on my 81′ El Camino and they never warped. I put newer drilled and slotted rotors on the front and they are just beginning to warp. Maybe he has a point, maybe not. All I know is I wish I had a brake lathe. Keep lovin that shop, Eric. You can do just about anything with it.
Nick[/quote]
A brake lathe is one of those better to have and not need kind of tools. I can honestly say I was in the camp of rotor and drum replacement until I got one. You’re correct that many of the rotors and drums made today are junk and turning them is only a temporary solution. But just the other day Barbara stopped by the shop with her van and it had a noise coming from the rear brakes. Turns out that they had got a little rusty when it sat and after driving for a while, the rust turned into some hard spots inside the drums. About a half hour later I had them machined and back on the van and the noise was gone. It was cheaper and faster than putting new ones on and the problem was solved. You can’t argue with results.
I am having trouble understanding how much use this machine would be. Take my vehicle for instance. The 288mm front vented discs come with 25mm thickness and according to spec are scrap at 22mm thickness. So this only gives 1.5mm wear per side doesn’t it.
Surely after two or three years the brake disk is just junk due to the wear limit tolerance, not the quality of the surface?
[quote=”dreadly” post=149545]I am having trouble understanding how much use this machine would be. Take my vehicle for instance. The 288mm front vented discs come with 25mm thickness and according to spec are scrap at 22mm thickness. So this only gives 1.5mm wear per side doesn’t it.
Surely after two or three years the brake disk is just junk due to the wear limit tolerance, not the quality of the surface?[/quote]
If you had access to one, I think you would understand better. As I pointed out in a previous post, it can really come through in a pinch.
I’M having trouble understanding all the pushback about machining rotors and drums. I, like many others have done it for years with very little issue. Also, consider the less we fix and the more we replace, the more we work toward vehicles like this.
Hey Eric, I am not ‘pushing back’ on the concept of machining rotors, I think it’s a fantastic idea and a fantastic machine that looks like it makes the whole process so easy and convenient. It’s got to be better for the environment also.
My issue/concern is with the manufacturers safety specs of the rotors. If they quote minimum thickness and you machine below that, does this then make you liable if something happens with it? I can see it to be very useful to quickly re-skim a rough disk or get rid of slight surface damage due to having run pads down to metal or such but with such little wear tolerance on modern rotors do you have to measure all of your rotors before and after to make sure they are still in spec etc. Or is the manufacturers min wear spec just for none re-skimmed wear? Or have I misunderstood and you only need to take off a few thousandths of an inch at a time so the disk remains in-spec?Also I am well aware of ‘none serviceable’ and ‘sealed for life’ promises that manufacturers make… Yet to find a genuine example that didn’t need some DIY is pretty much impossible. VW Polo – Sealed for life gearbox… Needs oil changing at 40k miles due to sticky gear changes. 2002 Volvo S60 T5 geartronic – Sealed for life gearbox.. LOL. (not sure if you know these examples? – I am UK based)
Did you recently watch the episode with the 4wd transfer unit on the Kia Sportage that South main auto fixed? A fine example of factory sealed.
I’m surprised brake lathes are still a thing. I’ve noticed that shops have been getting rid rid of them over the last 25 years or so, and to find one still in use is a true rarity. I was under the impression that typical modern brake discs and drums aren’t beefy enough to be resurfaced, which touches on the “Smaller, Lighter, Cheaper” topic.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=149617]I’m surprised brake lathes are still a thing. I’ve noticed that shops have been getting rid rid of them over the last 25 years or so, and to find one still in use is a true rarity. I was under the impression that typical modern brake discs and drums aren’t beefy enough to be resurfaced, which touches on the “Smaller, Lighter, Cheaper” topic.[/quote]
I guess that’s what I am getting at. Are modern rotors meaty enough to be re-surfaced?
The advantage of thinner lighter modern rotors is that it cuts down on unsprung weight which is a good thing. As Eric says though, nobody really wants a vehicle that is sealed for ‘life’… Life being whatever the manufacturer decides is legally long enough. Like modern ink/toner cartridges, they will expire after so many printouts no matter how much ink is still inside the cartridge.
Also, can you re-surface rotors that are drilled or grooved?
“Lifetime” factory parts are garbage + BS. I changed the trans fluid and filter in my Toyota and it saved the trans even though it was never “supposed” to be changed.
It’s like this, as long as you don’t machine below the minimum spec, you’re good. If the rotors or drums get cut below spec, or you suspect they might, replace them.
I seriously don’t understand all the push back over machining rotors and drums. It’s a very simple, straightforward process. If you can do it, it’s a great way to save money. If not, no big deal.
Nice Lathe ! I want one for Christmas. The lathe we use just has two speeds,and we are supposed to do two pass’s, the first a fast clean up pass then a slower smoother pass. During the slow pass I have time to work on something else. Our guard mounts on the hole between the bits and the cone and spring goes on the otherside of the rotor,everyhing else looks pretty much similar.Except for the Quick mounts. Your only dealing with a couple of thousands of an inch just to resurface. Nice Video
Just think a sheet of index paper is 10 thousands thick. Most the time your only taking off 2 thousands on each side. Shops without a lathe though can charge cystomers double for new rotors and make cash. Or save the customer some cash and make some too.
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149332]I can really tell you is that I am envious. I wish I had a brake lathe. I have six rotors sitting in my garage that I could probably have machined but I don’t have a lathe and I am too lazy to take them to a machine shop. As I think you discussed in another video, almost nobody really machines rotors anymore for various reasons. Rotors are cheaper now, and it costs more to machine because of labor. I don’t think this has much to do with it, but my father says that rotors and drums are made from junk metal now and so they warp faster and that they are “just junk.” I’m not sure if that’s true, but it sure seems to me like most rotors warp pretty quick nowadays. I had old rotors on my 81′ El Camino and they never warped. I put newer drilled and slotted rotors on the front and they are just beginning to warp. Maybe he has a point, maybe not. All I know is I wish I had a brake lathe. Keep lovin that shop, Eric. You can do just about anything with it.
Nick[/quote]
I have found EBC rotors to be he best on the market today; they are made in the UK and machined in the UK or the US and are made with good quality steel. They do cost more, but I have not had one warp on the last three vehicles installed them on; Mustang, Camaro and my Mother’s Crown Vic.
The styles include the stock replacements and slotted rotors mated with EBC pads green and red. My second choice is NAPA’s premium rotors, they are made in China, but seem to be decent quality; installed on both my father’s 2012 Impala and step-mother’s 2005 Impala. Mated with NAPA premium pads (made in Canada) and hardware.
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